When to Go
The best time to visit Mallorca is in the spring when the temperatures are usually pleasant and it is likely to be dry. Winter can be cold but with some luck the weather may be ideal and many people have had great holidays on Mallorca over Christmas and the New Year. If it does rain then there are many steep crags that stay dry but these tend to only offer harder routes. When it is raining in the mountains it is often still possible to find dry rock on the east coast crags – Betlem, Cala Magraner and Tijuana – which have routes across the grade range. Autumn is the stormy season and, although the temperature will be fine, problems can arise with dripping tufas on certain crags although there is still likely to be plenty to do and full-week washouts are extremely rare.
It is worth bearing in mind that Mallorca has a lot of north-facing crags which can be good options during hot spells although most only have routes in the higher grades. In the summer it is simply too hot and expensive for most climbers to justify a visit, although for those out on holiday the crags of Gorg Blau and Ermita de Betlem offer high and shady options.
Mallorca’s international airport is on the outskirts of the city of Palma which is on the destination list of many Low-cost carriers. This means bargain flights at off-peak times, and reasonable value flights at popular times with the added advantage of being able to book outward and return flights separately.
Mallorca is also an extremely popular package holiday destination and there are a plethora of charter flights leaving from most major European airports throughout the year. Prices vary from the ultra-cheap £50 specials to £200+ at the most popular times. The best place to buy charter flights is from one of the many low-cost flight shops.
A hire car is advisable for climbing in Mallorca since many of the crags are in remote locations and you will not be able to get the most out of your trip without access to a car. It is best to avoid the slow, hairpin-ridden roads in the mountains, unless a scenic trip is desired. The longer, straighter roads to the south of the mountains are a better option particularly now that the main motorway goes all the way from Palma to Alcudia. A toll tunnel has been built from Bunyola to Sóller which is a bonus for those wishing to reach the crags north of the mountains.
There is public transport from Palma but most people will need to speak good Spanish and avoid some of the more distant destinations to take advantage of it. Using the public transport system will require a long walk, or a difficult hitch, to get to the crag. The tourist information offices (see below) have good information about bus services which nearly all depart from the area around the train stations. The most accessible crags are Port de Sóller, Sa Gubia, Valldemossa and S’estret, Tijuana, Fraguel and Alaró.
There are large supermarkets in most of the major towns and hyper-markets in Palma. Opening times for the majority of shops in Mallorca are from 10am to 1:30 pm and 4pm to 8pm. Most supermarkets stay open during the whole day. Most shops will be shut on national holidays and many will be shut on Sundays.
Climbing Shops – There are two climbing shops selling climbing gear on the island plus a couple of Decathalons on the outskirts of Palma. Both sell the Rockfax guidebook. Intersport in Palma also sell the book although they price it at €38 instead of €29 at Foracorda, which is the correct price.
Foracorda – Run by local climber Carlos Raimundo.
Bon Camí - A small general outdoor shop in Port de Pollença.