Italy

Cala Gonone, Isili and Domusnovas areas clickable map of italy climbing areas Italy has many climbing opportunities from the Dolomites in the north to the popular coastal areas around Finale Ligure a couple of hours from Nice, to the limestone sport cliffs of rural Toscany and the popular Arco areas near Lake Garda. Climbing is possible year-round from bouldering to ice climbing to via ferrata, and of course there is much sport climbing and even some traditional cragging.

At present we only have information on the Mediterranean island of Sardinia, a diverse climbing paradise of majestic mountaineous cliffs sporting multi-pitch routes to single-pitch clip-ups that start straight off the beach. You will find quite extensive bouldering as well. October to May is ideal for climbing and several areas around the harbour town of Cala Gonone and several inland areas are described.

Go easy on the foccacia with dried tomatoes. It makes the belly fat and the fingers slippery.

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The Lemon House

Sardinia
Guesthouse for climbers in “the last paradise” of Eastern Sardinia


1 km from the sea, and 10-45 mins by car from beautiful, unspoilt, uncrowded Ogliastra’s main climbing areas, in the village of Lotzorai south-east of the Supramonte and Gennargentu, The Lemon House is a newly-renovated guesthouse for climbers, cyclists, walkers and kayakers. We aim to help you get the most out of your stay:

• Twin or triple rooms, ensuite or shared bath, €27-32 pppn B&B. Roof terrace with stunning views. Bouldering panel, fingerboard.

• Open 11 months a year. You can climb all year round, with south-facing crags at sea level for the winter to shady crags at 1000m+ altitude for the high summer. That’s why we chose to live here! See our videos http://www.youtube.com/user/TheLemonHouse to see exactly what it’s like here. (Please paste this into your address bar)

• 700 single-pitch sports routes (granite as well as limestone), 60 multi-pitch routes (including the famous Aguglia at Cala Goloritzč), from grade 5 to 8c+,DWS and bouldering, all within 5-60 mins drive.

• All local maps and guides. The new guide to Ogliastra was published in March 2008 and you can buy it from us, with all the updates. We have been helping Maurizio Oviglia with route checking and photos for the new edition of Pietra di Luna which should be published late 2010, translated into English by Peter himself.

• New routes we are setting: The Lemon House crag currently has 17 routes from 5c to 7b; we have bolted lots of lower-grade 4-6a routes at Monte Scoine, Montera Pittaine and Campo del Miracoli; the Su Telargiu cave is “the” big news, ideal for summer and with 30 routes from 6a to 8b+/c and 6 routes of estimated grade 8a/b-8c or harder awaiting their FFA. Come and help with the bolting or freeing routes!

• Peter never misses a chance to come climbing so if you need a partner he can help out; we normally accompany visitors on their first day to help them find the crags and choose their routes

•Superb cycling (MTB/road, we can arrange bike hire as well as suggest routes including GPS documentation), walking, (Selvaggio Blu, a 7-day expedition along the coast involving climbing and abseiling and reckoned to be Italy's toughest trek, starts 3km from where we live), sea kayaking, horse riding and diving as well as fascinating Bronze Age and pagan culture to discover!

• We also rent out a couple of apartments (our own nearby, 300 m from the sea, and one in Cala Gonone) and can help with transport to and from crags and walks.

Email - peteranne@peteranne.it Web site - www.peteranne.it

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www.rjukan-hytteby.no

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