• France
• Spain
• Norway
• Greece
• Italy
• Britain

Dorset

Access Restrictions

Many of the climbing areas in Dorset have sensitive access situations but thanks to the BMC and their local volunteers most are currently accessible to all climbers. However, people should be aware of their responsibilities and be careful not to abuse the access granted. In general, simple reasonable behaviour like not dropping litter, respecting restrictions, not making excess noise and using the described approaches is all that is required to ensure continued untroubled access to the climbing areas.
One notable area with problems is the Lulworth area. This area is owned by the Weld Estate who have announced a total ban on climbing on their land. This is for reasons of conservation and public safety. The BMC is currently trying to negotiate an access agreement acceptable to both climbers and land owner. Until this is done climbing is not allowed in the Lulworth Area.

Portland Restrictions for 2006

Wallsend South - Trad Free World Area - Right and Colors Area - No climbing 1 March to 31 July
Climbers have observed peregrines nesting again on the Empire State Arete. Please avoid all routes from, and including, Halfway to Heaven rightwards to Walking on Sunshine.

Coastguard South - From Down to the Wire rightwards - No climbing 1 March to 31 July
Unlike the other Portland restrictions this one is not variable. It is not for any particular bird there are just loads on this section of cliff.

Cheyne Cliff - From Drowning on Dry Land to Pandemonium - No climbing 1 March to 30 September
The owner of Cheyne Cliff is a keen bird watcher and she is also pleasant and agreeable to climbers. Don't do anything that might change this relationship. Please also note that the routes on the Road Rage wall should only be approached by abseil from above.

Pipeline Cliff - The small section of cliff to the south of Godnor Far North is call Pipeline Cliff. This currently has several bolted routes. No climbing is allowed on this section because of some rare plants and the routes should be de-bolted some time in the future.

Swanage Restrictions for 2006

The bird nesting areas for Swanage were reviewed in June 1999. Unlike the Portland restrictions these bans are more permanent however it is still worth checking if you are unsure.
NOTE - there is no longer any restriction on the Marmolata Area despite what the warden or the cliff-top markers might tell you. Hopefully any confusion here may be cleared up soon.

Hedbury - The Big Cove and Smokey Hole - No climbing 1 March to 31 July

Guillemot Ledge - The West Face and Younger Days - No climbing 1 March to 31 July

Blackers Hole - Polaris Area and The Great Cave - No climbing 1 March to 31 July

Boulder Ruckle West - Silhouette Arete to Snowdrop - No climbing 1 March to 31 July

Boulder Ruckle West - Sardine Special to Future Primitive - No climbing 1 March to 31 July

Boulder Ruckle Far East - Old Faithful Area, Behemoth Area and Too Precious Area - No climbing 1 March to 31 July

[top of page]

Advertise Here