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Dorset

Climbing Information

Gear

Sport Climbing
For the sport routes a single rope of 60m is advised since there are several areas on the east and west coast of Portland with routes close to 30m in length. It is possible to climb on many other areas with a shorter rope but please take special care and, no matter what length of rope you have, ALWAYS tie a knot in the end and stand close to the face when lowering off.
A rack of 12 or 14 quickdraws is enough for any route on Portland, however some lines at Swanage require more. Some of the sport routes at Swanage need the odd wire or two. Certain sport routes require an abseil approach or are tidal as at White Hole, Coastguard South and Long Quarry Point.

Trad Climbing
Double 50m ropes are required for virtually all the traditional climbs at Swanage. In addition, a 50m abseil rope is essential for many of the crags at Swanage and often these abseils are free-hanging so make sure a thick rope is used. Take a good selection of extra slings for belays and to avoid rope drag over the ever-present overhangs. For the big traditional routes take two sets of wires and some micro-nuts, plus a good selection of cams and some larger nuts. Include enough gear to belay yourself securely at the base of the cliffs (in case of a freak large wave).

Deep Water Soloing
Little gear is need for the actual climbing apart from a good supply of spare boots and chalk bags in case of a wetting. For some of the routes it is necessary for an abseil to be made to reach sea level for which you will need a harness and a friction device (these should be left on the ab rope when you set off on your solo so that you aren't weighed down in the water).

Bouldering
For the bouldering on Portland a padded mat is recommended to soften some of the high landings. A spotter or three is also a good idea.

General
Helmets are strongly recommended especially at Swanage because of the looseness of the rock. In summer many of the crags can be unbelievably hot so take loads of water and slap on the sun screen, shades and a hat. Also remember to take a good accurate guidebook with you.

Bolting

The bolting system used at the sport crags in this book is the U-bolt staple. These are made from marine-grade stainless steel held in with a special epoxy glue. They provide inexpensive, corrosion-resistant protection with a lifetime in excess of 25 years.

Here are some things to keep in mind when using these staples:
1) Use high strength karabiners with a breaking strain of 2300kg and above.
2) Carry a screwgate or sling to use on bolts which are close to edges or in uneven rock.
3) The staples can be lowered off directly or by abseil. When lowering always thread both belay staples. Make sure you secure the end of the rope before untying to thread the belay to maintain your lifeline in case of mishap.
4) Never top-rope off a single staple.
5) Always belay close to the rock face so that your belay rope goes straight through the first bolt. People who belay a long way from the face put heavy outward loading on the bottom bolt which has caused problems with some bolts in the area. It is also a dangerous practice since leaders are likely to go a lot further in the event of a fall.
6) If any bolts look suspect please make this known to other climbers by reporting it.

Nearly all of Portland is now properly geared but there are places, such as The Promenade at Swanage and Blackers Hole Quarry, that need work. Additionally the existing routes need occasional maintenance and re-gearing.

This all costs time and money, and to help with this The Dorset Bolt Fund is still up and running. Email Rockfax for more information.

Tides

There is not a great tidal range in the area. The highest spring tides (new and full moon) have about 2 to 2.5m range whilst neap tides (1/2 moons) only vary between 1 and 1.5m. Portland has a double tide which isn't really obvious to the eye but has the effect of prolonging the time the water level is high or low. Overall the changes in water level are slow when compared to Cornwall, Devon and South Wales. The tides advance by about 45 minutes a day and there are two highs a day some 12-13 hours apart. The flood tide flows to the east and the ebb to the west which are most apparent in the huge tidal race off of Portland Bill.
At Swanage a knowledge of tides is essential for most of the cliffs although only a few areas are actually cut off by high water. For virtually all areas it is worth keeping well away when the sea is moderately rough or worse.
On Portland a knowledge of the tides is not essential unless visiting the cliffs on the east coast or Coastguard South. The Portland deep water solos need the highest tides possible so look for spring tides of around 2m or higher.
Tide tables can be bought in newsagents, Post Offices, or from the visitor centre passed on the Weymouth causeway. There are different tables for Swanage and Portland. A rough guide to tides can also be got from the easytide website at www.easytide.ukho.gov.uk which could be very helpful when planning a visit. Because of the very strong tidal races at Portland and Swanage swimming is not advised.

Grades

The climbs in the area are given different grades depending on what type of route they are. Sport routes are given sport grades, trad routes are given trad (or British) grades (as are the deep water solos) and boulder problems are given bouldering grades. These grades are explained here.

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