El Chorro
Access
Over the years El Chorro has had a number of access problems affecting different crags. Currently the situation is much more stable than it used to be but there are still several areas of concern that the visiting climber needs to be aware of.
1) Railway Tunnels - Access to the railway tunnels is now totally banned with large sections of fencing erected and guards being posted at the entrance to one of the tunnels at popular times. The policing of the tunnels is for safety reasons, due in part to incidents involving people pushing prams through them or walking on the tracks with their iPods on! Although this has made access to the climbing in the Central Gorge area a bit trickier all the crags can still be reached at all times - see below.
2) Upper Gorge - Climbing in the Upper Gorge is now banned for environmental reasons and the area has been left out of the guidebook.
3) Wild Camping - No camping or open fires in the National Park.
The Walkway
The 'Camino del Rey' (or 'Walkway') has undergone some radical changes that have now left it in a more user-friendly state. The initial 25m of the Walkway has been dismantled and a via ferrata of sorts constructed that allows easy access (easy for climbers) to the Walkway. With a harness and slings it is straightforward to self-protect the via ferrata by clipping into the numerous bolts and rungs. The Walkway itself is slowly deteriorating but now this also has a series of wires all the way along it that allow a via ferrata style approach. This means that passage of the Walkway is now as fast and probably safer than it has been for many years.
For those who wish to negotiate the whole of the Camino del Rey, including the Upper Gorge, a rope and quickdraws are necessary to negotiate a section that is missing. This section is at the top of the Upper Gorge and necessitates a climb up, across and back down onto the Walkway and has some bolts for protection. This section can't be negotiated by those without climbing experience
Approach via the Walkway - The Gorge, Los Cotos, El Polvorin and the Makinodromo Area are best approached by the Walkway. Follow the road uphill past the El Chorro Refugio and take the first left at a sharp bend. Follow the road past the entrance to the campsite and along the side of the lake until the road turns inland and a huge railway bridge comes in to view - park on the left. Walk up the higher track above the gated road (the gated road leads directly on from the parking) that climbs to a point that overlooks The Gorge entrance, Green Bridge and railway entrance tunnel (this is where the guards are usually positioned). From here, drop down to some tall railings and traverse left on the outside, above a culvert, to where they end. Then go down left of the bridge to a scree slope that leads to the start of the via ferrata. Using this approach avoids the need to cross any of the rail tracks or the Green Bridge). The Walkway can then be used to access all the sectors in The Gorge. It is also possible to pass through The Gorge, drop down and cross the river to access Los Cotos or El Polvorin.
Makinodromo Approach
Via the Gorge - Follow the Walkway through the gorge (see page 108) and continue on the other side until you can pick up a path down to the river. Cross the river then walk leftwards under El Polvorin and follow a path up to the railway. Cross this and head up the slope past a small hut taking the best line for the desired area - see map.
The Notch Approach - From the path that looks down on the Green Bridge continue up the path (that has a wooden handrail) until a flat area is reached. Head right up the line of a scree slope and then cut back left along a faint path towards a notch on the ridge and cross here. Once on the other side a faint cairned path leads across the hillside to the Life is Sweet area. This long walk is superb with magnificent views and probably takes about the same time as The Gorge Approach.
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