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El Chorro

Climbing Information

Grades

The routes in El Chorro are graded using the usual sport grade. Over the years El Chorro has had a reputation for slightly softer grades than elsewhere in Spain. Most of those routes should now have been brought back in line with other areas although there may be the odd 'soft touch' out there for you to track down!

Grade conversion table

Gear

Virtually all the routes in this book are single-pitch sport routes protected by bolts. For climbing these you will need a set of around 12 to 18 quickdraws and a single rope. There are a number of multi-pitch climbs that require a rack of nuts and cams but many of these routes do have a smattering of bolts for both protection and belays.

Ropes - A 60m single rope is advised for most routes in this book. You will be able to get up, and more importantly down, many routes on a 50m rope, but it is much safer to use a longer rope. If you intend to climb any multi-pitch routes - sport or trad - then you may wish to take an extra 50m x 9mm rope for the abseil descents.

Other Gear - Beyond these essentials you may find tape useful for bandaging your fingers if the prickly rock starts to take its toll. For multi-pitch routes a small sack with a water bladder, a long-sleeve shirt and a sun hat are good ideas. A good pair of approach shoes are also worth packing as a number of the walk-ins such as that to Makinodromo are long and on scree.

Guiding

Rock and Sun

Guidebooks

Andalucia, Guia de escalada deportiva (2007) by David Munilla, Ediciones Desnivel

A huge guidebook of drawn topos covering a vast amount of the climbing in Andalucia. The number of climbs is astonishing and the approach descriptions to the crags reasonably accurate, however no details on the quality or style of the individual climbs is presented. The book has lots of superb colour photos of the harder climbs. In both Spanish and English.

el chorro guide coverEl Chorro - Escalade en Malaga by Javier Romero Rubiols (2003). The local guidebook to El Chorro and Desplomilandia. The routes are presented in colour photo and drawn topo form but no details on the quality or style of the individual climbs is given, although a gear list is included for the traditional climbs. In both Spanish and English and available locally.

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