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Mallorca

Grades

The routes on Mallorca are graded using the usual sport grade. Mallorcan grades have had a bit of a reputation over the years for being extremely hard, especially in the range 5 to around 7a. It was not uncommon to find yourself starting up a 6a that turned out to be a nasty 6b+! Through successive Rockfax guidebooks we have tried to rationalise these middle grades, bringing them into line with other areas, however there may still be the odd surprise out there. Additionally, routes on the newly-developed crags may not have been properly assessed yet - you have been warned!

Grade conversion table

Gear

Virtually all the routes in this book are sport routes protected by bolts. For climbing these you will need a set of around 12 to 18 quickdraws and a single rope. Of the 6 routes in this book that require gear, only one is likely to be on the tick list of most climbers - Albahida at Sa Gubia. If you wish to do this route then consider taking a small rack but otherwise leave it at home and save on luggage space. There is in fact a lot of traditional climbing on the island but most is very esoteric and not described in this book.
Ropes - A 60m single rope is advised for most routes in this book. You will be able to get up, and more importantly down, many routes on a 50m rope, but it is much safer to use a longer rope. If you intend to climb any multi-pitch routes - sport or trad - then you may wish to take an extra 50m x 9mm rope for the abseil descents.
Other Gear - Beyond these essentials you may find tape useful for bandaging your fingers if the prickly rock starts to take its toll. For multi-pitch routes a small sack with a water bladder, a long-sleeve shirt and a sun hat are good ideas.

Courses

Also worth considering are:

Món d'Adventura - www.mondaventura.com
Tramuntana - www.tramuntana-pursuits.com

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