Rjukan

Climbing Information

The areas around Rjukan vary greatly in their atmosphere and accessibility. The modern areas of Krokan, Lower Gorge and Ozzimosis are similar to summer crags - easy and short access, generally single pitch routes and are great venues for learning to climb ice. Krokan is also a place where you can climb astronomically hard and most people will only be able to stare and wonder at some of the harder climbs here.
The Upper Gorge and Vemork Bridge are majestic locations - huge towering walls and some of the finest long waterfalls in the world. The setting, approach and atmosphere make climbing here particularly memorable, but it is also a serious location, with most routes providing a long day out and not somewhere for the inexperienced climber.
The long, fat waterfalls that surround Rjukan Centre are easily accessed and most of these are of an agreeable difficulty. This also goes for the Svadde and Bølgen areas. Gausta and Rjukan Centre also have some longer and more serious routes, sometimes with long approaches. These areas are dramatically placed and have high standard climbs with great exposure.
Outside of the Rjukan valley there are several areas that also are well worth considering. Mæl, Jailhouse and Kong Vinter areas are all situated in small amphitheatres. These offer a high concentration of quality climbs that provide plenty of exercise for the restless climber who wants long climbing days.
The Presenil area has several waterfalls which offer roadside access and entertaining climbs. Late in the season these waterfalls usually disappear due to their exposure to the sun.
Finally, above the big lake of Tinnsjøen, there are also some waterfalls in an area known as Hovinbøle. Be prepared for long and strenuous approaches and waterfalls that are exposed to the sun.

Gear

Describing a standard rack for ice climbing is a bit difficult as different people have different preferences in the quantity and types of equipment they take with them. A rack can also vary greatly depending on whether you are going for mixed climbing at Krokan, or are doing one of the longer waterfalls. The rack presented here is what is usually carried by one of the authors.
standard rack In addition to the rack illustrated to the right, it is recommended that you bring extra blades for your axes and tools for changing these. If you are climbing mixed a file can be brought as well to maintain sharp picks. It is also smart to bring a small first aid kit. Some people also carry a home-made tool to clean out ice screws after removing them.

Double ropes
Ice Screws - different lengths
Quickdraws
Some loose krabs
Slings
Some rock gear
A couple of pegs
Headlamp
Helmet
Some cord and tool for descent by Abalakov abseils -planned or unplanned!

Grades

Grading a climb is always a difficult task and, when it comes to ice climbing, the changing conditions from day to day complicates this even more. The grades in use in Rjukan can only be used as guidelines and when you are choosing your climb for the day you should always consider the prevailing conditions. A climb like Lipton can have widely different conditions, being considered an easy WI 6 in good conditions, and a desperate WI 7 in less than optimal conditions. This is why more experienced ice climbers don't look at grades too much and instead are more interested in the temperature pattern through the previous week.
The tables to the right give a very approximate conversion between Water Ice (WI) and Mixed (M) grades, and the Scottish Winter Grades. These tables should only be considered as very rough guides and WI grades may feel quite hard compared to their Scottish equivalents though they will tend to be better protected.
Once you have considered all the variables, you should be able to choose an appropriate climb for the day without having too much of an epic as long as you remember that the grade is just a rough guideline.
WI or M grades?
The grades on the routes in the area use either the prefix WI or M (or both). A route with a WI grade is climbed on pure ice (when in condition). A route with the M (Mixed) prefix is climbed either partly or mostly on rock. Mixed climbing requires more advanced techniques than pure ice climbing since it is no use just banging your tools at the rock. You need to use your tools as hooks, or torque them in cracks to gain upward movement.