Dorset (2005)

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Dorset (2005)
Authors: Pete Oxley and Mark Glaister
Published: July 2005
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The 2005 edition of the Dorset Rockfax was another popular and successful book to this great area. The book contained a similar set of venues to the 2000 Rockfax, although the Devon section (first included in 1994) made a welcome return and, in addition, several of the popular bouldering areas made their first appearance in a Rockfax.


Crags Included

Links take you to the relevant section of the Rockfax Route Database.

Portland West Coast
Blacknor North, Blacknor Central, Blacknor South, Blacknor Far South, Battleship Edge, Battleship Back Cliff, Wallsend North, Wallsend Central, Wallsend South, Coastguard North, Coastguard South, White Hole.

Portland East Coast
Lighthouse Area, Cave Hole, Beeston Cliff, Cheyne Wears Area, The Cuttings

Lulworth
Durdle Door, Dungy Head, Stair Hole, Amphitheatre Roofs

Swanage
Winspit, Hedbury, Dancing Ledge, Guillemot Ledge, Cormorant Ledge, Blackers Hole, Fishermans Ledge, Promenade, Cattle Troughs, Boulder Ruckle Far West, Boulder Ruckle West, Boulder Ruckle Central, Boulder Ruckle East, Boulder Ruckle Far East, Subluminal

Devon Sport
Anstey's Cove, Torbryan Quarry


2 Reviews for Dorset (2005)

  1. Yasser said on

    It’s no secret really that I am a Rockfax fan, so it is no surprise to hear that I think their latest offering is as good as ever. Covering such illustrious venues as Anstey’s Cove, Portland and Lulworth it makes an excellent attempt at covering trad climbing, sport climbing, and deep water soloing – there’s even a bit of bouldering! Let’s face it, having separate guides for each type of climbing is not necessary, especially when they all mix so well in this part of the world. The Deep Water Solo grading system is the only aspect that really needs any extra explanation, and it is duly given on page 17 – S0 to S3, sitting alongside the regular technical sport grade, indicating the Seriousness of the route. There is the normal melange of information on camping, shops and other local amenities, as well as helpful introductions in French and German. The colour topo’s, detailed and inspirational in themselves, are interspersed with a decent collection of colour photos featuring both men and women.Word from the locals has it that it’s an accurate representation in terms of grades and route descriptions, un-surprising given the pedigree of it’s authors. Retails at £20, but for that you get a whopping 320 pages, and you know that with Rockfax symbols and topo’s that’s a whole lot of information. What more is there to say, a must have guide for a great part of the country.

  2. Matt Heason     said on

    It’s no secret really that I am a Rockfax fan, so it is no surprise to hear that I think their latest offering is as good as ever. Covering such illustrious venues as Anstey’s Cove, Portland and Lulworth it makes an excellent attempt at covering trad climbing, sport climbing, and deep water soloing – there’s even a bit of bouldering! Let’s face it, having separate guides for each type of climbing is not necessary, especially when they all mix so well in this part of the world. The Deep Water Solo grading system is the only aspect that really needs any extra explanation, and it is duly given on page 17 – S0 to S3, sitting alongside the regular technical sport grade, indicating the Seriousness of the route.

    There is the normal melange of information on camping, shops and other local amenities, as well as helpful introductions in French and German. The colour topo’s, detailed and inspirational in themselves, are interspersed with a decent collection of colour photos featuring both men and women.

    Word from the locals has it that it’s an accurate representation in terms of grades and route descriptions, un-surprising given the pedigree of its authors.

    Retails at £20, but for that you get a whopping 320 pages, and you know that with Rockfax symbols and topo’s that’s a whole lot of information.

    What more is there to say, a must have guide for a great part of the country.

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