The Rjukan Area in Norway has become well known across Europe in recent years for its magnificent waterfalls which give a high concentration of ice climbs of all difficulties. The waterfalls vary from short half-pitch exercises to long (800m) full day outings and most are easily reached by short approach walks. The main valley is sheltered from the sun most of the winter, and offers stable cold climate in the winter months with many options for accommodation.
Format - This book is in the familiar Rockfax format of full-colour photo topos, high quality route descriptions, with symbols, maps and all the other features that you have come to expect. The authors are Jon Haukåssveen and Tom Atle Bordevik, both live locally and are experienced ice climbers, Jon in particular has put up many first ascent in the Rjukan area. Because of the environment it is used in, the Rjukan guide comes complete with a plastic sleeve to help preserve the book.
Local Suppliers - The book is available in many outlets in Rjukan itself - Rjukan Tourist information, Libris (bookstore), Rjukan Gjestegård, Rjukan Hytteby, Rjukan Hytte og caravanpark and Intersport Rjukan.
Next Print Edition - The next edition of this book will be produced by Tom Atle Bordevik through his own publishing company. The Rockfax book is due to sell out towards the end of 2012 and Tom will hopefully be publishing his book sometime after that. It will not be a Rockfax title.
Including: Fredrik Schlyter Photography
Many of the stunning images included in the book were provided by Fredrik Schlyter. His web site has more examples of his work including sections on ice climbing, rock climbing and big wall climbing, check it out!
Areas Included
Links take you to the appropriate section of the Rockfax Route Database which contains a listing of every route.
Krokan, Upper Gorge, Vemork Bridge, Lower Gorge, Rjukan Centre, Svadde, Gausta, Ozzimosis, Bølgen, Mæl, Jailhouse, Kong Vinter,Presenil, Hovinbøle
9 Reviews for Heavy Water – Rjukan Ice
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I have been going to Rjukan for the past four years and compared to the old guide, that you could download, I found the new book excellent for locating routes. A lot of the routes have been down-graded, this I do not have a problem with, but reducing the number of pitches on a route can be misleading. The old guide gives Bolgen as six pitches at grade four. Rockfax guide give it four pitches at grade three. I have done this route on a number of occasions with different people and grade three would be about correct, but it is definitely six pitches not four. During our stay in Rjukan our accommodation was opposite Bolgen area and we noticed a lot of teams descending from Bolgen by head torch, as late as ten in the evening. This could be quite dangerous especially if their ropes were to become stuck on the trees during the difficult decent.
Just been to Rjukan; had a fantastic time. The guide is excellent. One small problem we encountered was the approach notes for Mael. Admittedly we got up a bit late (last day). We found the first bend in the approach road, but the instructions from there are a little vague – ‘walk straight ahead to reach the gorge. Abseil from here to the ground.’ After thrashing about in the woods for an hour following various tracks (no doubt left by other confused climbers) we decided that we had run out of time, gave up and went elsewhere. Fantastic guide; keep up the good work ;)
Had an excellent time in Rjukan, thanks to both an excellent book and a top organiser. Thanks for putting in the “dangerous – do not climb” routes to avoid confusion (eg. power station effluvia!) and for the clear photography which was a great help. Just a shame the place was a little crowded, which is testament to the fun to be had!
Had an excellent time in Rjukan, thanks to both an excellent book and a top organiser. Thanks for putting in the “dangerous – do not climb” routes to avoid confusion (eg. power station effluvia!) and for the clear photography which was a great help. Just a shame the place was a little crowded, which is testament to the fun to be had!
Just been to Rjukan – had a fantastic time. The guide is excellent.
One small problem we encountered was the approach notes for Mael….. Admittedly we got up a bit late (last day). We found the first bend in the approach road, but your instructions from there are a little vague
“Walk straight ahead…. to reach the gorge. Abseil from here to the ground.”
After thrashing about in the woods for an hour following various tracks (no doubt left by other confused climbers), we decided that we had run out of time, gave up and went elsewhere….
Fantastic guide – keep up the good work ;)
I have been going to Rjukan for the past four years and compared to the old guide, that you could down load, I found the new book excellent for locating routes. A lot of the routes have been down graded, this I do not have a problem with, but reducing the number of pitches on a route can be misleading. The old guide gives Bolgen as six pitches at grade four. Rockfax guide give it four pitches at grade three. I have done this route on a number of occasions with different people and grade three would be about correct, but it is definitely six pitches not four. During our stay in Rjukan our accommodation was opposite Bolgen area and we noticed a lot of teams descending from Bolgen by head torch, as late as ten in the evening. This could be quite dangerous especially if their ropes were to become stuck on the trees during the difficult decent.
I have not even been there yet, but the thought of going got me and some mates psyched as it looks awesome. Our flights leave on the 18th . . . . . . .!
Just got back. A superb guide, the best yet. Like the history section. Please do this on future guides.
It looks bloody gorgeous – I bet you’re dead pleased with it. It sets an extremely high standard of presentation.
What next? A guide to La Grave or Cogne perhaps?