Heavy Water – Rjukan Ice

Publications > Books > Old Books > Heavy Water - Rjukan Ice
Authors: Jon Haukåssveen and Tom Atle Bordevik
Published: December 2005
Stock: Sorry, this has sold out

The 2005 Heavy Water - Rjukan Ice guidebook covered the Rjukan Area in Norway. The area is well known across Europe for its magnificent waterfalls which give a high concentration of ice climbs of all difficulties. The waterfalls vary from short half-pitch exercises to long (800m) full day outings and most are easily reached by short approach walks. The main valley is sheltered from the sun most of the winter, and offers stable cold climate in the winter months with many options for accommodation.

Next Print Edition - The next edition of this book will be produced by Tom Atle Bordevik through his own publishing company. The Rockfax book has now sold out and Tom will hopefully be publishing his book sometime soon. It will not be a Rockfax title.


Areas Included

Links take you to the appropriate section of the Rockfax Route Database which contains a listing of every route.

KrokanUpper GorgeVemork BridgeLower GorgeRjukan CentreSvaddeGaustaOzzimosisBølgenMælJailhouseKong Vinter,PresenilHovinbøle


9 Reviews for Heavy Water – Rjukan Ice

  1. Simo said on

    I have been going to Rjukan for the past four years and compared to the old guide, that you could download, I found the new book excellent for locating routes. A lot of the routes have been down-graded, this I do not have a problem with, but reducing the number of pitches on a route can be misleading. The old guide gives Bolgen as six pitches at grade four. Rockfax guide give it four pitches at grade three. I have done this route on a number of occasions with different people and grade three would be about correct, but it is definitely six pitches not four. During our stay in Rjukan our accommodation was opposite Bolgen area and we noticed a lot of teams descending from Bolgen by head torch, as late as ten in the evening. This could be quite dangerous especially if their ropes were to become stuck on the trees during the difficult decent.

  2. Sedetik said on

    Just been to Rjukan; had a fantastic time. The guide is excellent. One small problem we encountered was the approach notes for Mael. Admittedly we got up a bit late (last day). We found the first bend in the approach road, but the instructions from there are a little vague – ‘walk straight ahead to reach the gorge. Abseil from here to the ground.’ After thrashing about in the woods for an hour following various tracks (no doubt left by other confused climbers) we decided that we had run out of time, gave up and went elsewhere. Fantastic guide; keep up the good work ;)

  3. Giovanni said on

    Had an excellent time in Rjukan, thanks to both an excellent book and a top organiser. Thanks for putting in the “dangerous – do not climb” routes to avoid confusion (eg. power station effluvia!) and for the clear photography which was a great help. Just a shame the place was a little crowded, which is testament to the fun to be had!

  4. Jonathan Ford said on

    Had an excellent time in Rjukan, thanks to both an excellent book and a top organiser. Thanks for putting in the “dangerous – do not climb” routes to avoid confusion (eg. power station effluvia!) and for the clear photography which was a great help. Just a shame the place was a little crowded, which is testament to the fun to be had!

  5. e-villen said on

    Just been to Rjukan – had a fantastic time. The guide is excellent.

    One small problem we encountered was the approach notes for Mael….. Admittedly we got up a bit late (last day). We found the first bend in the approach road, but your instructions from there are a little vague

    “Walk straight ahead…. to reach the gorge. Abseil from here to the ground.”

    After thrashing about in the woods for an hour following various tracks (no doubt left by other confused climbers), we decided that we had run out of time, gave up and went elsewhere….

    Fantastic guide – keep up the good work ;)

  6. Ian Atkinson said on

    I have been going to Rjukan for the past four years and compared to the old guide, that you could down load, I found the new book excellent for locating routes. A lot of the routes have been down graded, this I do not have a problem with, but reducing the number of pitches on a route can be misleading. The old guide gives Bolgen as six pitches at grade four. Rockfax guide give it four pitches at grade three. I have done this route on a number of occasions with different people and grade three would be about correct, but it is definitely six pitches not four. During our stay in Rjukan our accommodation was opposite Bolgen area and we noticed a lot of teams descending from Bolgen by head torch, as late as ten in the evening. This could be quite dangerous especially if their ropes were to become stuck on the trees during the difficult decent.

  7. Supersteve said on

    I have not even been there yet, but the thought of going got me and some mates psyched as it looks awesome. Our flights leave on the 18th . . . . . . .!

  8. John Codling said on

    Just got back. A superb guide, the best yet. Like the history section. Please do this on future guides.

  9. Colin Wells said on

    It looks bloody gorgeous – I bet you’re dead pleased with it. It sets an extremely high standard of presentation.
    What next? A guide to La Grave or Cogne perhaps?

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