3 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Famous Alto Sax Break < Padarn Dance  |  Sinbad > Depression >>

The once-pegged crack is a classic pumpy pitch. It can be soloed by the talented and led by the merely good.
FA. Rick Newcombe 1960s


Careful on the solo- hold's have been known to come off(fortunately the guy who chipped black magic fell from the top when a hold t).
UBER classic finger crack
Dave N - 30/Apr/04

First climbed this route April '95, and evokes sweet memories of that mad hot summer to come. Oh, long lost salad days, eh? Did nuthin but climb at Pex from Oct '94 and thought the Dateline would go right after we did The Rack(we had no topo for Pex at the time, and it LOOKED easy to us). Tried it, and one strained bicep later, conceeded defeat. So for anyone starting their climbing career at Pex, be warned: don't overstretch yourself on this one. It'll seriously pump ya forearms- but if you can make it past the first 15 feet, it's trophies all round.
Nicky Reid - 30/Jan/05

Locals agree that this is E3.
Pekkie - 17/Jun/05

well deserved 3 stars
gil - 10/Aug/05

Did this and cobweb crack. This is much harder particularly as it was very damp and slimy
Liam - 28/May/06

E2 5c *** (OS Lead). And solid at that - a substantial and meaty lead up one of the best lines here. Hardest (both climbing and protecting) low down, it eases off but remains distinctly uphill. Good name.
Fiend - 02/May/07

as far as lines go there's no better than this one at pex. Really good finger jams and good feet in the pockets...the only thing that makes it ever feel hard is moisture; when dry it's just pleasantly sustained and interesting. Think it's much more friendly than many millstone E1s.
Evan Holdsworth - 26/Apr/10

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 33
    hard E3 0 of 12
    E3 0 of 12
    easy E3 8 of 12
    hard E2 2 of 12
    E2 2 of 12
    easy E2 0 of 12
    hard E1 0 of 12
    E1 0 of 12
    easy E1 0 of 12
    hard 6a 0 of 13
    6a 0 of 13
    easy 6a 6 of 13
    hard 5c 3 of 13
    5c 3 of 13
    easy 5c 1 of 13
    hard 5b 0 of 13
    5b 0 of 13
    easy 5b 0 of 13
    3 Stars 3 of 8
    2 Stars 3 of 8
    1 Star 1 of 8
    0 Stars 1 of 8
    Bag of ..... 0 of 8

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