Black Magic

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Depression < Exit On Air  |  Black Magic Direct > Acid Test >>


Magic indeed. Climb the fingery and technical wall, easing with height. Sadly the route was chipped by some half-witted technical dunce though the worst of the damage was repaired a few years back. This grade is for leading with wires threaded over the old bolts, and Friends in the top break.
FA. Phil Davidson late 1970s

USER COMMENTS

originally E6 6a, of course if felt desperate for 6a, but that's pex for you. A heart symbol doesn't do it justice a small starfish would be more appopriate
l applat - 07/Nov/03

E6 for the solo and E5 for leading sorted!
neil williams - 08/Oct/04

Yeah, what a beaut- or atleast it was. Me and a mate started our climbing career at Pex and had this one in our sites all year. Every time we stuck a toprope on it, it STILL felt desperate, no matter how strong we got. Then, 364 days after starting at Pex and with the wall greasing over as the winter approached, I busted it. Just. And just aswell. Turns out that some GOON customisted it to his specifications during winter '95/'96. Just for the record, my mate, Dan Maltman was probably the last person to climb it in its original form(Sat 4th Nov, '95) albeit on a toprope. That long, hot, dry summer left the Dateline wall good to climb longer than usual in '95, but just the following weekend it was untouchable. COULD be wrong about that one though, so if you know better...

As for the fruit who chipped it, I'm SOOO sorry to hear he had a 'little accident' on the Dateline. No, honestly. Hey, maybe there's a god afterall.

Understand it was Buzz Jones who repaired the holds at the time (again, could be wrong about this). Props to him for even trying. Got to say though, it's nothing like it was. I know it's only a rock climb, but those holds had so much character.
Nicky Reid - 30/Jan/05

I think it waas Pete Chadwick who repaired the holds. He mixed in some of the sand from the quarry floor to improve the texture and colour but your right, it's not quite the same.
andy farnell - 31/Jan/05

Back about the time he did the first solos of Right Wall and Cockblock, Phil Davidson used to down solo this. That said, it has got harder with abseilers kicking off small holds, and after the chipping incident when Buzz filled in the chips too well. Little welsh git.
Pekkie - 18/Jun/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 21
    hard E6 0 of 8
    E6 0 of 8
    easy E6 5 of 8
    hard E5 2 of 8
    E5 1 of 8
    easy E5 0 of 8
    hard E4 0 of 8
    E4 0 of 8
    easy E4 0 of 8
    hard 6c 0 of 9
    6c 0 of 9
    easy 6c 0 of 9
    hard 6b 0 of 9
    6b 3 of 9
    easy 6b 5 of 9
    hard 6a 1 of 9
    6a 0 of 9
    easy 6a 0 of 9
    3 Stars 2 of 4
    2 Stars 2 of 4
    1 Star 0 of 4
    0 Stars 0 of 4
    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

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