Black Slab

1 Stars
Fluttery
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Stepped Crack < Black Slab Arete  |  Black Slab Variation > Green Groove >>


8m. Climb the pleasant slab (no gear) and delicate arete above.

USER COMMENTS

Wouldn't complain about VS 4b as its a bit bold for 4b, but compared to, say, Crow's Nest at Birchens, a complete pushover.
Jon Croxford - 13/Jul/02

Crow's Nest seems easier, and is well protected. Black Slab is not. Sunset Slab at Froggatt, HVS 4b, is far easier, even in the lead. Possibly Black Slab is easy for those who go on climbing walls.
Chris FitzHugh - 25/Feb/03

Two smooth steps, one to the left and another to the right overcome the first short slab, protected only by a hopeful arrangement of twisted micronuts and small friends. The welcome break at half height provides welcome security and the confidence to finish with a flourish!
jeremy windsor - 19/Apr/03

Leg breaking landing and no gear till half height, I've seen people place side runners in Black slab variation. st VS you might as well solo it, all in all Lovely moves and superb exposed finish. VS 4c barefoot
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/03

Crux definitely in the first couple of metres. Protectable with a sneaky high friend in the diff to the right. The top is run-out but easy and in a lovely position. I feel its a good tech grade easier than The Crow's Nest (and a lot less strenuous in its first half) but has a lot less gear.
D Berry - 29/Jun/03

I soloed this before I could lead solidly at VS...sounds dumb, but I found pleasant and easy. i'd give it HS 4b with side runners, VS 4b as a solo.
jon stewart - 31/Jul/03

If you go straight up the top slab it is easy, if you climb the L arete then the top is more tricky, makes for a more sustained and enjoyable route
Matt Griffin - 31/Jul/03

B*ll*cks is Sunset Slab easier.

G
Graham - 01/Aug/03

S 4a with side runner, VS 4a without.
Simon Caldwell - 13/Oct/03

Found the first half quite hard and commiting for a VS. I usually relish unprotected slab moves and found myself a bit worried on this one. In comparison to Sunsett slab it felt technically harder.
Joe Mansfield - 27/Apr/04

only my second ever VS, although I do like slabs, and i just soloed the first half (ie. no pro) with a rope and then put some gear in the ledge to protect the arete. This was supposed to be more technical but in fact the crux is on the slab and i could have soloed the whole thing. Id give it VS 4a, didnt even consider side runners, but with them no more than severe.
Si - 01/Aug/04

I thought this was the other way round, delicate slab and pleasant arete!
Iggy_B - 15/Apr/05

really nice. only slightly bold though enough to get the legs twitchin a bit. quite unusual climb for grit, an easy(ish) slab.
DannyC - 12/May/05

By the time you have got to the gear you have made the hard moves, the top arete is steady but I don't know if I would like to slip
donkarlo - 01/Jul/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 110
    hard HVS 0 of 37
    HVS 0 of 37
    easy HVS 0 of 37
    hard VS 1 of 37
    VS 18 of 37
    easy VS 11 of 37
    hard HS 7 of 37
    HS 0 of 37
    easy HS 0 of 37
    hard 4c 0 of 36
    4c 0 of 36
    easy 4c 1 of 36
    hard 4b 1 of 36
    4b 23 of 36
    easy 4b 5 of 36
    hard 4a 6 of 36
    4a 0 of 36
    easy 4a 0 of 36
    3 Stars 4 of 37
    2 Stars 7 of 37
    1 Star 25 of 37
    0 Stars 1 of 37
    Bag of ..... 0 of 37

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