Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 105
Layback the curving black flake and swing around the corner to a ledge. The delicate upper arete is a worrying contrast. The lower arete can be climbed on the right to give a tough direct start, Too Good to be Forgotten, f6A.
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A helmet is a good idea on this.
tricky moves off the ledge
The flake always seems a bit fragile, wouldn't want to lob on cams behind it!
Bits of the flake have snapped off, glad i wasn't leading it. i found it deviously techncial.
it sure does seem technical and 'spooky' at the top - but it was put up by John Allen
The crux is definately on the top wall where the dodgy gear appears to receed rapidly !
It seemed high in the grade to me - maybe even a 5c?
Strenous then technical and not as much gear as you'd like, seems to have everything.
single cam (well behind flake, monkeyed around, hands on shelf, just a mantle and **********, rope wedged, no give, fell whipped around the aret and ran up black slab. That flake is sound and the fall ok. QED. Top part chocka with great useless holds. Fine route nevetheless.
Fantastic route, good mix of brute and technical. Flake is solid at the top, more than enough for a cam. Getting off the ledge really took some thinking about, and several false starts - probably harder for us shorties (as always).
Awkward and not particularly enjoyable.
liked it, but then I'm tall so the top bit was ok for me. Bottom bit was very awkward mind.
Is a great little route. Top bit is very technical and sparsly protected.
Good route. No other E1 has taken me three attempts. The move off the middle height ledge to gain the arete is brilliant.
Fell off this and ended up finishign up the chimney. The crux is very awkward.
Slightly awkward crux getting around the arete, yes, but the nice short intro, and then the excitement of trying not to over-balance on the arete make it all worthwhile.
Enjoyable route, good protection with plenty of cams. I found a way to get established on the top arete without a "Now or Never" moment.
I cannot think of a more unobvious, precarious, awkward, off-balance and down right weird and nasty move than the crux of this route. Hard 5c for me (or you could do it a more obvious way using pebbles at about 6a, but that would be cheating!)
Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn doory move at the top. The most exciting E1 and Burbage N.