The Sentinel

2 Stars
Technical
Strong
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Now or Never < Sentinel Chimney  |  Sentinel Crack > Present Arms >>


10m. The narrow projecting buttress has a couple of steep and powerful moves just below the top.
FA. Dennis Carr 1977

USER COMMENTS

Fiddle some small wires into the thin seam and just go for it. Although you can get a medium-ish friend in the top break if you want to hang around for that long!
Mike - 26/Mar/02

The crux is lower than I thought and I ended up reversing it twice before committing to the top moves. The crack isn't as easy to get good gear in as it looks and the top break is quite dirty. My first E2 so can't really comment on the grade but really good climbing.
DaveF - 31/May/03

standard 5b
mark s - 04/Oct/03

Not sure exactly where this route goes - does it follow the underside of overhang throughout? I ended up rocking round onto the right hand face and climbing this with my left hand on the arete for the last couple of moves (following obvious, heavily chalked holds). It wasn't easy - 5b with no gear after the crack. Did I go wrong? Was still fantastic quality though.
Jamie Moss - 12/May/04

It's not that hard to follow this route! Not many options. Just go straight up the front.
There is a good cam available in a break higher up but it is strenuous to place (i used it though as I was scared stupid!)
DaveF - 15/Jun/04

The climbing is fantastic. Both the adjectival and technical crux is fiddling around in that bloody awful mid-height crack.
Fiend - 31/Mar/06

Good mid-grade E2 5b with plenty of good cams in the horizontal breaks - ignore the vertical crackline until you're above it, as fiddling with nuts will just knacker you for the rest of the route! Slotting in a piece at the top from the jug/ledge abvoe it, however, is easy.

I also felt it natural to finish on the right arete...
Pythonist - 15/Mar/07

A really good route, matched by the moves, the line and the profile. Good enough protection, I got three good wires in the crack. From there, I went straight to the top, with the briefest of hesitations before gaining the top. First rate.
lowersharpnose - 12/Nov/07

Brilliant. Easiest shortarse E2 in the peak.
Jon Leighton - 16/Sep/09

I had the exact same experience as Mr Moss - followed the obvious holds which swings you round using the right arete with the left hand. This is nowhere near E2 (easier than FBD!), and makes the 'proper'? route totally contrived. E1 5b* with a contrived E2 variation? Rather disappointing.
Jon Stewart - 10/May/10

Agree - awkward and not as good as it looks. Soft E2 5b*
mark20 - 27/Oct/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 64
    hard E3 0 of 29
    E3 0 of 29
    easy E3 0 of 29
    hard E2 3 of 29
    E2 16 of 29
    easy E2 7 of 29
    hard E1 3 of 29
    E1 0 of 29
    easy E1 0 of 29
    hard 5c 0 of 8
    5c 0 of 8
    easy 5c 0 of 8
    hard 5b 0 of 8
    5b 8 of 8
    easy 5b 0 of 8
    hard 5a 0 of 8
    5a 0 of 8
    easy 5a 0 of 8
    3 Stars 17 of 27
    2 Stars 7 of 27
    1 Star 2 of 27
    0 Stars 1 of 27
    Bag of ..... 0 of 27

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