Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 102
The leaning jamming-crack gives a short-lived tussle. Good gear.
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Not really a grazing route: you can make a high step on to your right foot and rock on to it then sort of lay away from the crack. Bottom bit's easy: getting over the overhang is hard (as you would expect!)
Don't be fooled, even if you use the high-rock over (which is the way to do it I found), you'll more than likely end up using a 'bomber' hand jam which results in the routes name. A fun problem to throw your friends at ;-)
Using the left arete makes the crux much easier.
Wasn't misnamed for me - got a bomber fist jam in, but used the layaway trick too. Fist jam is useful for resting, and is solid as a, errm, rock. Who voted HVS for this route? It's definitely a VS, possibly high in the grade, but the crux could be said to be 5a for the short (as my mate was - he really struggled on his second).
The grazer is a great name for this climb! In my opinion it was definitely a 5a move over the overhang. Much harder than lieback but altogether an excellent climb…deserves 2 stars just for that first hand jam.
The hand jam is bomber. I reckon it could be harder if you are really tall (I am 6'4'') as its awkward getting your right foot up. I did the crux eventually but then took my first leader fall. Good Gear! VS 5a in my book.
Not that difficult once you find the holds. Good gear, but take care not to block your hand jams. Then put your foot up and go, I wussed out three times before I went for it, only to find it's actually rather nice.
If Lieback is VS 4c, then this must be HVS 5b!
vs 5a but high in the grade i hate hand jams to didn't use one just locked off and went high for the break and that was it! Nice route
Did this thinking it was Lieback, laybacked it and thought it was fairly easy (probably easier for the tall). How does a very well protected route with a 4c crux at 6m get VS while a technical poorly protected (i.e. one ok peanut) route, Spider Crack, with a 5m high 5b crux gets VS also (at 8 and 6 metres respectfully neither are sustained). Been away for a while and I had forgotten about the UK’s grading idiosyncrasies.
Just my type of climb, really enjoyed it, one piece of gear under the overhang and go for it.
Not sure this is worth 5a? Bit awkward but perfectly fair VS 4c.
aaaaarghh*!:#? My fists are still sore & it was years ago!
If you can jam well and you are fairly flexible then its VS 4C, but if you can't jam then this route is nearly impossible. the crux move is well protected so just go for it!.