Dove Crag Gully
<< Variation Direct Start < Birkness Chimney | Central Chimney > Birkness Gully >>
165m. 1)Climb the wide chimney by ice on its left wall to pull over a chockstone. Continue up the snowslope to a belay on the left. If the ice is not formed this point can be reached by climbing the buttress L of the Gully or by traversing easily in from the left at a point level with the upper icefall. 2)Climb the icefall direct onto the easier angled snowslope above, peg belay on the right hand side at 50m. Variations on this pitch exists to the right, step right and follow a series of icy ramps back left. Above the snow gully can be followed direct or a variant gully can be followed to the right.