Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 84
A straight crack with an awkward bulge passed by jamming.
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Come on! This is a total sandbag. Hand jams on a severe? I guess it shows how climbing has evolved (devolved?)
Yes, handjams on a severe. Tried 20 ft crack?
A sandbag, sure. Even more so if you use the BMC guide - vdiff in that.
What's so strange about hand jams on a Severe? Try Almscliff or Brimham, you'll find them on VDiffs too.
I was climbing well when i climbed it (bagged some E1s), and found it hard. at least VS.
As good an introduction to jamming as you'll find
Felt a little hard for a severe, bu then again I hate jamming. My second cheated by using holds out right (reachable from the crack, but just not cricket)
Rates Severe, but a bit of a sandbag for the grade - couple of hand jams came in useful. I found it tough for the grade, but as I was climbing late on a really cold day, my hands had gone numb so I couldn't feel the holds.
i thought it was a gd easy jamming route
Tempting ledge off right is to be avoided!
What a load of rubbish. I like jamming but hated this. Have since seen three groups have nightmares on it. The grade is about right but its so uncomfortable. Avoid.
I did it yesterday and it was very greasy and unreassuring. Top bulge is fine, establishing yourself in the open crack is harder - choice of gear and an arm bar or else a decent fist. I went for the former as it was difficult for the grade. Led someone else up it who had just failed the lead.
Whoops typos: should be 'fist jam' and 'as it was diff' should read 'and it was..'
Never VS, lol. Sightly tricky for the grade in a couple of places and would mayve warrant HS if the gear wasn't do good, but it is.
Interesting route, the crux section is possibly best approached as though you are trying to pull open lift doors, which is enough to be able to get your feet up, and once through that, you are in the clear... Possibly a touch hard for a Severe, but possibly only 'cos the moves are a bit strange, but the top section is lovely...
My best Severe climb yet, the start was quite difficult, plenty of jam to find and losts of places to place for gear and a very nice top finish. Does seem a little harder then a Severe.
Did this as my first severe after leading a number of VD/HVD in the last year, I would agree with the severe grade and the pro I got in seemed bomber (hopefully!)
Found it a little difficult at mid section and thought a little hard for the grade.
Really fun old skool style VDiff, big boots would probably make it better fun. Stick with the BMC guidebook VDiff grade not a severe
A bit of a bugger. Struggled with no gear for main off-width crack in damp conditions. For someone with little jamming experience it was a very good way to learn hand jamming...basically do it or fall off, as I did...twice. Made it in the end. My 4th severe lead and easily the hardest.
Plenty of jamming severes around, even some V Diffs (Dogleg Crack, Curbar; Mars, stanage). This isn't one though. S 4b is about right
S 4b. Good gear, tough steep jamming at the top.