Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 82
The long crack is tricky in its central section. A good intro to off-widths, it can be face climbed too. Huge cams might help.
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Tricky is definitely the word - take several LARGE friends unless you fancy a 12 foot unprotected runout, and learn how to climb using things like head next-to fist jams and right leg bars.
Disappointingly possible to avoid off-widthing by the judicious use of face holds at the same grade
If you've got 5.10 approach shoes wear them. It makes the foot work less painful. Hands free rest can be had with a cunning foot jam!
No need to offwidth just layback and use the face holds. if you get scared jam a foot and take a well earned rest.
Forget the large cams, the crucial protection is provided by a small cam and a micro wire. My second just laybacked the crux, made it look simple. Superb line and excellent climbing throughout.
Excellent route. Knee jams make it easy. 4 camalot makes it safe.
my climbing partner used a rockcentric 8 at 3rd height and a friend 6 (yes huge!) at 2/3 height to protect this. I got my kneee stuck at the crux and had some problems, but on the whole ok for the grade id say, as long as you can do offwidths.
Defeated! Got a #9 rockcentric in about 3m or 4m up. Squirmed up to crux via repeated knee/thigh/arm jams/torquing. Got knee stuck, got tired, slithered down to holds just above gear. Rested, repeated, gave up, lowered off.
Maybe I better upgrade this on my "Offwidth" site as everyone seems to find it harder than I expected. I climbed it in trainers in the rain once to retreive runners from a VS novice who nearly onsighted it when wet. Offwidths and knee bars...a lost skill. As VS 4b's go its reasonably protected without huge gear (just look).
don't worry too much about 'squeeking' your boots - worry if your leg's gonna fit the crack!!
Defeated also (that's twice now). The climbing's ok, you can get really secure leg jams all the way up the crack, but it gets quite scary if you don't have huge cams to protect it (I didn't).
I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback at 4b - there's a big hold on the crack. No need for knee, leg or head jams. It's bold 4b climbing up the crack before the protection re-appears.