Knight's Move

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Dover's Progress < Hollyash Crack  |  Peter's Progress > Arme Blanche >>


16m. One of the best routes on Burbage North. Climb past some holes then take the thin cracks (small wires) and continue up the wall above, following the flakes rightwards to finish. Excellent and mild enough at the grade to guarantee arguments a-plenty.
FA. Gilbert Ellis 1933

USER COMMENTS

Damn fine route. Take plenty of small wires. It gets easier the higher you go. Good first HVS?
Rob s - 06/May/02

Some say it's hard to protect: but my mate got 13 bits of gear in.
Martin Brice - 04/Sep/02

I got a lot of gear in, but most of it isn't that good. Very low in the grade - none of the moves feel hard for an HVS. A good route nonetheless.
gav p - 30/Sep/02

superb introduction to Hard Severe the 'very' bit only relates to the quality of the route.
Tom O - 31/Jan/03

Put a sock in it Sloper! This sort of shite will get someone killed.

G
Graham - 05/Feb/03

Agreed. Hard Severe, utter sh***
Slab Happy - 05/Feb/03

Wonderful climbing, excellent gear, low in the grade. This was my second HVS, so I can say it's a safe way to break into the grade.
RobD - 03/Mar/03

My third HVS, so I'd agree. Good for your first HVS grade break. Do not agree with earlier Hard Severe comments. This route is NOT HS, and any green HS leader who tries it may find themselves in the sh*t.
James McN - 13/Jun/03

Great gear, great moves, great HVS grade breaker.
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/03

There's no gear near the bottom so that accounts for the HVS. I think the climbing is 4c at the most. Good route but 3 stars?
Goose - 15/Sep/03

Goose, The start of this route is shared with a VS (Peter's Progress). The hard bit is higher up. The first gear is at about 3m so hardly a bold start either. A good, well protected route. Very easy HVS.
Monk - 26/Sep/03

sad to see that the first placement has been broken and is now not as good as it used to be. So what if the first gear is at 3m you can still do yourself a lot of damage from that height
michael simpson - 28/Sep/03

vs 4c.not worth 3 stars either.
mark s - 04/Oct/03

Wouldn't describe a marginally necky and not immediately protectable 5a reach as VS 4c. However, I would agree that this route is low in the grade.
James McN - 04/Oct/03

really really easy hvs even on a cold wet day with numb hands. leaves you scratching your head for hours after trying to work out how you missed the 5a move. i didn't manage much decent gear placement though -rekon i would've decked during most of the climb.
Leon Skeldon - 03/Apr/04

would say it is harder than most vs4c routes and probably right to be hvs 5a, just low in the grade as shown at the front of the guide, 2nd easiest hvs. still great stuff
james turnbull - 14/Apr/04

If you have the right rack - small nuts and cams - and are quite cunning at placing them, then this route is extremely well protected. Think i got 5 (count 'em!) pieces in at bottom the the crux flake before launching up it (which is easier than it looks). More gear at top of flake, then massive breaks (cams) all the way to the top. Great fun.
Jamie Moss - 12/May/04

This was one of my first leads 12 months ago, and it felt every bit of HVS - had to rest on the gear half way up. Went back to it yesterday and found it sooo easy. So now I would agree it is low in the grade, but what a lovely route.
Tim Waterhouse - 16/Jun/04

The easiest HVS in the area. Very pleasant 3* route to finish on after a day of climbing.
Alex Lai - 24/Aug/04

If Great Crack is VS 5a, which is the correct grade then how can Knight's Move be HVS 5a? VS 4c is about the right grade. Granted the first protection is about 3 metres up but the climbing is reasonable up to this point and you are able to stand in balance wilst placing gear. The rainmaker is HVS 5a, this is considerably more problematic than Knight's move and a more serious proposition. On a final note, two stars max.
Turkey Boy - 12/Sep/04

The VS/HVS debate shouldn't distract from the fact that this is a really nice route.
GrahamD - 25/Oct/04

Enjoyable lower end HVS ...fully agree with above comment, enjoy the route waffle about the grade later in the pub.
Shaun Walby - 31/Oct/04

Nice route but if its HVS (which I dont think so) then Peter's Progress has to be too for consitency. A fairly tough VS low in the 5a grade with the worrying bit below the technical crux (IMHO)
Steve C - 25/Nov/04

climbed this on a very warm and moist summers evening without chalk so it probably felt harder then it should have been, i reckon its low end VS but still a very good route.
Adam Moroz - 01/Feb/05

i meant low end HVS not VS
Adam Moroz - 01/Feb/05

my second hvs. not too bothered about the grade particularly but i'm pretty solid at vs and this felt harder than everything i've done before(though perhaps not 'the mall') if that counts for anything. lovely route. three stars.
DannyC - 26/May/05

Great route, not strenuous. If you're confident on HVS then perhaps a good route not to lace ie learn to place as little gear as you need! A 10m route with bomber gear all the way doesn't need five pieces in the space of one metre!
Andrew Barker - 29/May/05

Not strenuous. Nice moves between almost-rest positions. Wasn't convinced by my own gear though.
Richard - 30/Aug/05

Low in the grade. Could be VS...
SARS - 25/Sep/05

This was my first H.V.S. lead and I was pleasently surprised by the lack of difficulty BUT I felt that the gear was poor until two thirds of the way up. If your pushing your grade, there are far better protected routes around.
wobbly - 30/Sep/05

have to agree with most people tecnically not a hard route but certainly one where you have to keep your head especially on the first section.I spent 5 minutes with no gear looking for a placement 3m up the thought sod it and carried on to a good nut slot. Did anyone else utter thank god when you get the jug after the harder section
chris elfleet - 30/Oct/05

VS 5a, not HVS. You can rest on every move and there is plenty of gear.
Glen - 17/Mar/06

I know the grade debate will go on forever, but a ask anyone who thinks this is HVS 5a to go and climb ‘Saul’s crack’(Roaches) then ‘Suicide wall’(Cratcliff), if these three climbs are the same grade the grading system needs re-evaluating.
A.J - 07/Jul/06

Any grade will contain a range from easy to hard. K.M. is easy for the grade, only just HVS in fact; the examples you provide for comparison are right at the other end of the scale.
EarlyBird - 09/Jul/06

This very fine climb is easy for its grade, this was the first and last climb of the day, it started to rain just as i finished the climb, looking forwards to doing this route again, in better weather conditions.
Paul Tomo - 18/Jul/07

The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the flake. After the end of the flake there was no real 'line' to the route. Didn't really enjoy it that much.
James Cox - 21/Nov/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 383
    hard E1 0 of 130
    E1 0 of 130
    easy E1 3 of 130
    hard HVS 0 of 130
    HVS 23 of 130
    easy HVS 78 of 130
    hard VS 26 of 130
    VS 0 of 130
    easy VS 0 of 130
    hard 5b 0 of 127
    5b 0 of 127
    easy 5b 3 of 127
    hard 5a 0 of 127
    5a 28 of 127
    easy 5a 70 of 127
    hard 4c 26 of 127
    4c 0 of 127
    easy 4c 0 of 127
    3 Stars 94 of 126
    2 Stars 28 of 126
    1 Star 3 of 126
    0 Stars 1 of 126
    Bag of ..... 0 of 126

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