Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 86
1) 20m. Simply amazing climbing with relatively easy moves on large holds and an unforgettable no-hands rest at half way! Despite the rest, it is pumpy as hell! 14 bolts and the crux is clipping the 13th which is badly placed. Photo page 4 and cover. Now with extension 2) 30m. 8a/8a+
Brilliant super steep safe route with a bolt almost every metre. A must for any jug jockey!
Fabulous route. No move is harder than 6a. EZ for the grade. Why would anyone bother to clip the 13th bolt?
I blew the onsight by trying to clip all the bolts. Don't bother.
Rest is not half-way, but when it is quite finished.14 bolts for less than 20 m!!!(and out of the line)
The route now as only 11 bolts... quite nicer!
Counted 5 no hand rests!
indeed that extra anchor is unnecessary. it really makes you sweat to go and clip it. i also found 4 or 5 good resting places. excellent route for an onsight, no move is really hard..only endurance is needed
Now there is an amazing extension at ~50m and 8a/8a+. Cruxy in the middle and quite run-out to the top anchor...
Crazy route, a must. What's truly amazing is that it's so easy for the angle. It's like a 6c in the gym back home.
I found the climbing wasn't anything special, but the position was amazing.
Nice route but perhaps not quite 3 stars. Awful clip at the top of the tufa pipes which is best extended when you put the draws in.....can be clipped easily with a drop knee or hip wedged in the pipe.
Putting some of the clips in near the top was the crux! If you can persuade your partner to go first make sure they use long quickdraws in the last few bolts!
briliant. only jugs but so steep