DNA Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 7a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Zawinul Syndicate < Aphrodite  |  Ivi > Priapos >>


1) 20m. Simply amazing climbing with relatively easy moves on large holds and an unforgettable no-hands rest at half way! Despite the rest, it is pumpy as hell! 14 bolts and the crux is clipping the 13th which is badly placed. Photo page 4 and cover. Now with extension 2) 30m. 8a/8a+

USER COMMENTS

Brilliant super steep safe route with a bolt almost every metre. A must for any jug jockey!
DaveG - 22/Jun/03

Fabulous route. No move is harder than 6a. EZ for the grade. Why would anyone bother to clip the 13th bolt?
Chris - 08/Oct/03

I blew the onsight by trying to clip all the bolts. Don't bother.
John Alcock - 27/Oct/03

Rest is not half-way, but when it is quite finished.14 bolts for less than 20 m!!!(and out of the line)
Pascal - 01/Nov/03

The route now as only 11 bolts... quite nicer!
David Rodrigues - 18/Sep/04

Counted 5 no hand rests!
Adam Lincoln - 30/Sep/04

indeed that extra anchor is unnecessary. it really makes you sweat to go and clip it. i also found 4 or 5 good resting places. excellent route for an onsight, no move is really hard..only endurance is needed
spider-dan - 16/Oct/04

Now there is an amazing extension at ~50m and 8a/8a+. Cruxy in the middle and quite run-out to the top anchor...
arisgr - 31/Jan/05

Crazy route, a must. What's truly amazing is that it's so easy for the angle. It's like a 6c in the gym back home.
simm2000 - 18/Jun/05

I found the climbing wasn't anything special, but the position was amazing.
Ben Stokes - 22/May/06

Nice route but perhaps not quite 3 stars. Awful clip at the top of the tufa pipes which is best extended when you put the draws in.....can be clipped easily with a drop knee or hip wedged in the pipe.
Morgan Woods - 18/Oct/06

Putting some of the clips in near the top was the crux! If you can persuade your partner to go first make sure they use long quickdraws in the last few bolts!
Neil Binns - 15/Apr/07

briliant. only jugs but so steep
ioni manzatu - 12/Dec/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 86
    hard 7b 0 of 46
    7b 0 of 46
    easy 7b 9 of 46
    hard 7a+ 4 of 46
    7a+ 23 of 46
    easy 7a+ 2 of 46
    hard 7a 8 of 46
    7a 0 of 46
    easy 7a 0 of 46
    3 Stars 30 of 40
    2 Stars 10 of 40
    1 Star 0 of 40
    0 Stars 0 of 40
    Bag of ..... 0 of 40

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