Priapos

3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
 8a+

Adjacent Routes
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55m. A mammoth trip up the back of the cave. To the first lower-off at 35m is 7c. The full route is 55m and 25 quickdraws to the lip at the grade above although it is claimed that the second half is only 7c+. Careful rope-work is needed if you want your gear back although it is said that a 70m rope will get you to the ground. Take care!

USER COMMENTS

THE route of Kalymnos and one of the best I've ever climbed. 1st pitch not as hard as it looks. 2nd pitch harder and harder. Needs 2 ropes and 25 QD
Vincent M - 01/Oct/03

If you're not up to the 8a+ finish, the first pitch is well worth doing by itself. 19 QDs & a 70m rope. One of the best pitches on the planet!
Chris - 10/Nov/04

I do agree: best route i have ever climb in the world at this grade.
Pascal - 13/Nov/04

I only did the first half - which was totally silly with no-hands rests EVERYWHERE. Hardly 7c, even, if you have a good pair of pants that enables you to use the zillion different no-hands. The second part looks interesting, though.
Enzo - 06/Apr/05

Worth 8a to the top. But make sure you've got the rope to get down, humorous if you haven't
Matt - 18/May/05

I thought the first section was 7C despite the rests, though i only had one 80m rope so there was a lot of rope drag!
Robbie - 24/May/07

Almost certainly the best stalactite 7c in the world (up to the first belay) though easy for the grade. 80m rope to get back to ground comfortably.
Carl - 02/Jun/08

I think most people do this as a "7c" to the first lower off, and the extension is known as super priapos. The 7c section is fantastic, maybe not as good as aegialis due to all the rests. nowhere near 7c really.
Ged Desforges - 26/Apr/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 16
    hard 8b 0 of 6
    8b 0 of 6
    easy 8b 0 of 6
    hard 8a+ 2 of 6
    8a+ 1 of 6
    easy 8a+ 0 of 6
    hard 8a 3 of 6
    8a 0 of 6
    easy 8a 0 of 6
    3 Stars 9 of 10
    2 Stars 0 of 10
    1 Star 0 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 1 of 10

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