Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 64
8m. A bit of a two-move-wonder starting as for First Crack. It has small holds and the odd useful pocket. Low in the grade.
Best bit of gear I used was a size 1 BD swedge. A good route.
No.2 nut in the little slot and a long reach make this a VS. Fun tho'.
the only thing i got in was a number 4 rp in the slot. it didn't look amazing but i rekon it'd hold.
Small nut would probably hold, huge span to even larger hold!
The slot takes a standard wallnut 1 sideways with a near perfect fit and is VS. The sequence to the pocket is 4c and not as reachy as I expected, just a little tricky to spot.
I'd recommend the direct start (as per old BMC Froggart guide), it makes the route more interesting, but not harder.
Nice but very narrow direct start (no aretes)- probably 6b - makes a good route.
Having placed the No 1 wire in the obvious slot it looked very poor indeed. Backed this up with 2 more micro wires but they were equally lame. After exhausting myleslf placing the gear , the easy exit was much appreciated.
definatly HVS. The obvious nut slot before the first 5a move doesn't take anything from a no3 nut sideways to a no 4 rp with any confidence and is too narrow for a good micro cam