Amazon Crack

3 Stars
Pumpy
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Gazebo Watusi < Obscenity  |  Amazon Gully > Boney Moroney >>


12m. A glorious fissure in the shallow corner which is quite superb and far too short. One of grit's better short cracks.
FA. Jack Macleod 1932

USER COMMENTS

Nice climbing, but not 3 stars, and doesn't really deserve "one of grits best short cracks" IMO. Perhaps HS 4b?
Nick Smith - 09/Apr/02

Cracking little route. Probably HS though. Made easier by using holds out right on the arete.
gp - 19/Dec/02

i thought it was excellent. HS 4b wouldnt be unfair, but i think could be easy VS too.
felix - 17/Feb/03

Nice route, tricky to on site at HS I'd say, but also doesn't really feel like VS 4c at any point. I think VS 4b is fair as it is quite sustained/pumpy and also intmidating on the crux, to onsite lead.
Woker - 08/Jul/03

Well-protected, 4b, difficulties not sustained. So why VS?
Gareth Rees - 05/Sep/03

I onsighted this route back in late 2000 at the end of my first 3 months of outdoor climbing. There is plenty of gear in the crack (if you've got enough medium - large hexes/cams), and whilst it's at the top end of Hard Severe, there's no way this route qualifies as VS 4b. A good route, but another example of incorrect Rockfax regrading.....
James McN - 09/Oct/03

Well protected, plenty of rests. HS 4b.
Simon C - 13/Oct/03

Superb but very very easy for VS.
Jamie Moss - 12/May/04

Its a pleasent route but whoever thinks its VS and therefore a bigger undertaking than Central Groove or Main Wall is having a Larf. HS if you must, but probably better off as a stiff S 4a.
GrahamD - 25/Oct/04

Enjoyable route... bomber gear, easy for a VS4b.
Shaun Walby - 31/Oct/04

VS? Well at -3 celsius, numb beyond the elbows, in horizontal hail and my only large cam 10ft off the deck and 12 below my feet it just about felt that way. Crux at 1/3, find the crockery in the crack and its over.
Duz Walker - 06/Mar/05

If you can jam it's HS if you can't its VS. Still a great route though.
Jonathan Miles - 26/Jun/05

I Found it a very good route, Good gear placments & easy jams, VS4b?
Paul Tomo - 24/May/06

Fantastic route!
Iggy_b - 29/May/06

Great route, tricky start to reach the ledge then some nice jamming from there on. Could be difficult near the ledge if your hands are small. Need a lot of medium/large sized cams or hexes to protect it well.
Tim M - 01/Jun/06

Try Greeney crack to the right it's much more interesting in my opinion and much more VS to boot.
stuart harmer - 03/Jul/06

HS 4b is fair. Unless you can't jam!
mark20 - 26/Apr/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 175
    hard VS 0 of 10
    VS 0 of 10
    easy VS 0 of 10
    hard HS 3 of 10
    HS 7 of 10
    easy HS 0 of 10
    hard0 of 10
    0 of 10
    easy0 of 10
    hard 4c 0 of 86
    4c 0 of 86
    easy 4c 1 of 86
    hard 4b 4 of 86
    4b 70 of 86
    easy 4b 11 of 86
    hard 4a 0 of 86
    4a 0 of 86
    easy 4a 0 of 86
    3 Stars 42 of 79
    2 Stars 37 of 79
    1 Star 0 of 79
    0 Stars 0 of 79
    Bag of ..... 0 of 79

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.