Amazon Crack

3 Stars
Pumpy
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Gazebo Watusi < Obscenity  |  Amazon Gully > Boney Moroney >>


A glorious fissure in the shallow corner which is quite superb and far too short. One of grit's better short 'n' sweet cracks.
FA. Jack Macleod 1932

USER COMMENTS

Nice climbing, but not 3 stars, and doesn't really deserve "one of grits best short cracks" IMO. Perhaps HS 4b?
Nick Smith - 09/Apr/02

Cracking little route. Probably HS though. Made easier by using holds out right on the arete.
gp - 19/Dec/02

i thought it was excellent. HS 4b wouldnt be unfair, but i think could be easy VS too.
felix - 17/Feb/03

Nice route, tricky to on site at HS I'd say, but also doesn't really feel like VS 4c at any point. I think VS 4b is fair as it is quite sustained/pumpy and also intmidating on the crux, to onsite lead.
Woker - 08/Jul/03

Well-protected, 4b, difficulties not sustained. So why VS?
Gareth Rees - 05/Sep/03

I onsighted this route back in late 2000 at the end of my first 3 months of outdoor climbing. There is plenty of gear in the crack (if you've got enough medium - large hexes/cams), and whilst it's at the top end of Hard Severe, there's no way this route qualifies as VS 4b. A good route, but another example of incorrect Rockfax regrading.....
James McN - 09/Oct/03

Well protected, plenty of rests. HS 4b.
Simon C - 13/Oct/03

Superb but very very easy for VS.
Jamie Moss - 12/May/04

Its a pleasent route but whoever thinks its VS and therefore a bigger undertaking than Central Groove or Main Wall is having a Larf. HS if you must, but probably better off as a stiff S 4a.
GrahamD - 25/Oct/04

Enjoyable route... bomber gear, easy for a VS4b.
Shaun Walby - 31/Oct/04

VS? Well at -3 celsius, numb beyond the elbows, in horizontal hail and my only large cam 10ft off the deck and 12 below my feet it just about felt that way. Crux at 1/3, find the crockery in the crack and its over.
Duz Walker - 06/Mar/05

If you can jam it's HS if you can't its VS. Still a great route though.
Jonathan Miles - 26/Jun/05

I Found it a very good route, Good gear placments & easy jams, VS4b?
Paul Tomo - 24/May/06

Fantastic route!
Iggy_b - 29/May/06

Great route, tricky start to reach the ledge then some nice jamming from there on. Could be difficult near the ledge if your hands are small. Need a lot of medium/large sized cams or hexes to protect it well.
Tim M - 01/Jun/06

Try Greeney crack to the right it's much more interesting in my opinion and much more VS to boot.
stuart harmer - 03/Jul/06

HS 4b is fair. Unless you can't jam!
mark20 - 26/Apr/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 175
    hard VS 0 of 10
    VS 0 of 10
    easy VS 0 of 10
    hard HS 3 of 10
    HS 7 of 10
    easy HS 0 of 10
    hard0 of 10
    0 of 10
    easy0 of 10
    hard 4c 0 of 86
    4c 0 of 86
    easy 4c 1 of 86
    hard 4b 4 of 86
    4b 70 of 86
    easy 4b 11 of 86
    hard 4a 0 of 86
    4a 0 of 86
    easy 4a 0 of 86
    3 Stars 42 of 79
    2 Stars 37 of 79
    1 Star 0 of 79
    0 Stars 0 of 79
    Bag of ..... 0 of 79

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