Long Tall SallyRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 297
Adjacent Routes
10m. A superb climb up the blank groove. Many people's first Extreme lead which is surprising since it isn’t all that easy. Passing the bulge is awkward and leads to the crux, which requires faith in friction. Protection is good but fiddly. USER COMMENTS
Felt the crux was actually above the bulge ie a long stretch/smear for the pockets well above. I also thught the gear protecting the crux move to be not so good in fact. Agreed, not a push-over and hence hard to understand why it is people's 1st extreme. Perhaps because it looks inviting?
My first Extreme, and I loved it. I also felt the crux was above the bulge on the smears, although getting off the ground is not trivial!
I agree, the crux is above the bulge trusting to friction whilst stretching for the high left hand hold. Like others my first E1 lead. Gave me just enough of a flutter to keep me awake at night for several days. The dogs b...
Deffinitely no harder than HVS. Sorry to all of you who thought it E1.
For some daft reason I found the start (getting into a bridged position) the technical crux (till I discovered a trick involving my thumb which made it piece of piss). Over the bulge is not as hard as it looks (decent footholds), and well protected (5 nuts!). Above that, the holds are bit disappointing and the gear lacking, but all good fun.
I think the crux is the bulge although it stays interesting until you have the pocket. The slab on the bulge looks very steep when you are trying to get a foothold on it!
Nice route but add another crux by heading across to the left arete after the bulge. Route is then given E1 5c and is called Rockers. Keeps the fun lasting a bit longer
The bulge is the most pondered upon bit of rock that I can think of.
Crux for me is getting off the ground, after that a highstep+palm off see's to the bulge, and some more delicate moves with smeers for the top crack,
I think you have to work to make the small gear solid. Therefore not an ideal choice for a first E1. Beautiful line though.
my first E1. Sounds like a kids toy! but it was and i loved it. As above, getting off the floor is hard but the foot placements are beautiful as long as you dont rush. A fantastic balancey route with good gear at the bulge and a thrilling end! Top notch!
Did it lastweekend when it was seeping wet on the bottom. Does that count for anything? : )However, feel that it needs another 10m added to it with another 5b move. Nice nevertheless.
great route. i found it very pumpy though and very hard to get gear in the crack just above and below the crux. i ended up with 2 small cams in the crack where it enters the upper wall then a very very crap cam in the pocket further up for confidence (which later fell out).
I think it pretty much always seeps at the bottom and only one foothold on seepage so no extra points for that I wouldn't think.
Well i'll admit it, ive lead E1 before but as i started up this i found the gear to be shit. I just couldn't bring myself to pull over the bulge, so down i came and up went the top rope. Great route though.
My first E1 lead...I thought the gear was poor, I only had 1 small cam with me..and 1 nut above bulge (very poor). Solo`d the top half, didn`t fancy hanging around. Deserves its 3 stars..amazing climb!!
Excellent medium wires can be placed below and above the bulge before making the move over it. Several more very good wire placements above the bulge make the route safe all the way through to the top-out. Smearing on the slab allows the upper wires to be placed without haste.
You can get a bomber 4 or 5 wire above the bulge - quite a reach to get it in!
One good wire (larger than medium) before the bulge and one just before the pocket the rest is not so great since the crack is quite shallow. I have done E1's that have better and easier protection and the crux is reachy and smeary therefore I wouldnt reccommend it as anybody's first Extreme.
Dropped my nuts as it started to rain chest high to the bulge. Nuts caught in rope and the wind blew so commited and was disappointed, twice, by reaches to pockets. Once foot on the original palm off though its all over.
As said before passing the bulge is straight forward, the crux comes after. There is overhead gear for this part, if you can reach standing on the good footholds, if you can't like meyou won't be able to stop to place anything once you start on the smears. However it was my first grit E1 so I was a bit wired. Even with the above said I think it is reasonably protected.
One thing to keep in mind is the fact that as well as good wire placements there are also a lot of bad ones which are quite easy to find when placing gear blind!
Not as easy as I thought it would be. You can hang around all day on it though. Seems like some of the climb is getting a bit polished, which is a shame. Good fun.
found the start well tricky and no protection untill you stand on the scoop and can get your fingers in the bulge crack. commiting your fingers out of the good holds was the hardest part for me and if the small peable on the left wall goes will make this route a tad harder
Didn't actually find it too hard, i think i may have been having a good weekend though.
What a excellent climb for your first E1, the start was wet and very damp and that was right up to the crux, once past the bulge it was dry and the friction was good, one piece of gear mid way past the crux and straight to the top. Fantastic Climb E1 5b for sure.
Like a previous comment hardest move for me was getting off the ground.
Hardest move is getting off the ground.
For technical dummies who find the start the crux, starting slightly to the left and laybacking up into a bridged position so you can reach the pocket high on the left should make things a bit easier.
I did this route again, nearly 5 years after I first did it. While it was nowhere near as scary or intense the second time, the moves were still just as good. What a great route. Don't spoil it my top-roping it before you lead it.
I don't know why its alot of peoples 1st extreme, as I thought it was very technical. Fantastic route, size 0 and 1/2 friend before the lip and a wire just above, bommer. Then after the crux its a size 6 nut, a definate E1.
its a definate E1 as its more delicate than thuggy, easy 5b moves if you trust friction
the start to this is easy just one side pull to the pocket rather than using all the holds. i'm going to do this route again though as I loved it from side pulls to pockets to lay back and smears then a crack to finish it has it all without being hard |