Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 36
16m. An ancient classic, much harder and bolder than you might expect! Climb the easy groove until the projecting buttress to the right can be reached by a short traverse. Balance up this to a final sketchy move (large gear) or sneak off right if short.
Bold front face on well-scoured holds.
awkward travrse but with good gear then gearless vdiff/severe climbing above, just needs a good head!
Massively undergraded. I wish peoeple could be more objective. Show me a 4b leader who can lead this! It is thuggish at the 2 breaks (5a) and run out and very scary to reach the 2nd. Two grades harder than Sunset Slab, at least HVS+, 5a.
Too Bloody right Ian, I have lead and soloed up to e1 and blitz pretty much any hvs, took a mate out climbing and did this and the traverse and move onto the front in thuggish at best and then it's enormously runout! When i got out onto the face i suddenly remembered doing it about 8 years ago and shitting me self then as well!!! My head better now and i stayed calm and walked up cos it is admittedly easy climbing but not fun!
Who put the house brick in the top break ?
you think because its "only HS "and only "4b" that its going to be easy,but a bit runout,well think again and times the runout by 10.after this climb i went and had a real think about what i want out of climbing.
You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above is definitely run out, but steady at about vdiff, certainly no more than severe. The top move is fine with big gear, if you bottle it you can step off. It is intimidating, it is run out, but it is 4b and it is vs. 5a?!?!? Don't put people off by posting rubbish just because you had a miserable time.