Central Buttress

3 Stars
Rounded
 HVD 3c

Adjacent Routes
<< Green Crack < Black Crack  |  Central Buttress Direct > Central Buttress Chimney >>

24m. A classic outing, although not especially central! Start around to the left of the buttress, on damp grassy ledges, at a tree belay. Traverse out right along the break (good jams and gear) onto the front face and climb well-marked holds to the notch beside the Stonnis Pinnacle (possible stance, thread belays). Continue up the centre of the slab to steeper ground then traverse left at one of two levels to a short-lived jamming crack.
FA. Morley Wood 1923

USER COMMENTS

The initial tree belay is no longer there, probably the victim of a late night drinking session. The initial break only has good jams if you've got Craggs-sized mutant hands (the crux of the route was avoiding the broken glass in the crack here). Couldn't find any thread belays by the pinnacle (were these chockstones? if so they're no longer there).
Simon Caldwell - 24/Aug/09

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