Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 39
Excellent steep climbing up the imposing buttress. Tackle the steepening crack left of the deep gully to its end then hand traverse out left to a ledge. Climb more steep cracks to another ledge then finish though the bulge directly above. A tougher finish is to traverse back to the right arete and finish up the awkward undercut groove there - HVS 5b.
I am puzzled why people think this HVS - good gear and 4c do not a HVS make! Odd.
The wild finish on the left arete is excellent, but fairly run out. The right-hand finish is currently rather spoilt by the cremation ashes dumped all over the finishing holds (!)