Lean Man's Climb

3 Stars
Technical
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Camel Hot < The Indirect Start  |  Feeding the Pony > The Superstitious Start >>


22m. Tackle the awkward and slippery elephant's-ear layback (crux) to good ledges; tree belay. Climb the wall leftwards following the superb zig-zag crack into a final steep groove (4c).
FA. Fred Pigott 1920. FA. (the flake start) Eric Byne 1933

USER COMMENTS

No way it not 5a. More likely 4c - nice route.
Steve Barker - 30/Sep/03

The start is probably easier if you ignore the flake and sketch up the slab to its right!
Chris Craggs - 28/May/04

Also the very last move is tricky.
Chris Craggs - 28/May/04

Agree with Both of the above comments. The initial layback was too slippery for me but the reach was just there. The top pitch is delightful. This is a good quality route.
Martin - 02/Jul/04

I struggles with the moves from the traverse to ge testablished inthe finsl crack, found the jams very baggy but not quite fist-width and so awkward, harder than the bit above anyway.
The start was spoilt by the polish, laybacking with my feet slipping constantly wasnt great fun.
Si dH - 28/May/05

The start is a joy! Didn't see any polish. Last move hardest for me. VS 4c (but more than one 4c move).
Swig - 28/Jun/07

Nice route with some well protected bouldery moves typical of this crag. VS 5a is fair. Most other people seem to agree too.
Jon Leighton - 16/May/08

In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that after several attempts and soloed on up. Didn't know about grades!
I came back a year later and soloed it again but found the top crack a struggle. Must have got it wrong. I never thought of myself as a good rock climber: it was a means to an end.
Malcolm Cochran - 26/Dec/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 47
    hard HVS 0 of 16
    HVS 0 of 16
    easy HVS 0 of 16
    hard VS 0 of 16
    VS 16 of 16
    easy VS 0 of 16
    hard HS 0 of 16
    HS 0 of 16
    easy HS 0 of 16
    hard 5b 0 of 16
    5b 0 of 16
    easy 5b 0 of 16
    hard 5a 0 of 16
    5a 10 of 16
    easy 5a 4 of 16
    hard 4c 2 of 16
    4c 0 of 16
    easy 4c 0 of 16
    3 Stars 11 of 15
    2 Stars 4 of 15
    1 Star 0 of 15
    0 Stars 0 of 15
    Bag of ..... 0 of 15

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