Feeding the Pony

2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
 E8 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Indirect Start < Lean Man's Climb  |  The Superstitious Start > Lean Man's Superdirect >>


10m. The desperate right-hand side of the slab right of Lean Man's Climb has awesome climbing involving four 6c moves in a row. A big Hex 11 may not be enough to prevent a deck-out from the slopey top. It is possible to kneebar-your-forearm for a rest (you'll know what this means when you get there). Originally done with a side-runner at E7 and easier for the tall.
FA. Mike Weeks 1990s. FA. (without side-runner) Ben Heason 2000s

USER COMMENTS

I think Ben gets the real first ascent for this, there was never any choice for him than to solo it, the side runner is a bit of a cop out even though a bit more life assuring. Though I was too much of a whimp to do it either way. Cool moves though and it definately helps being tall.
robert mirfin - 10/May/06

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