Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 31
20m. The stunning hanging groove; brilliant climbing, but restricted to the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove but is well protected (easier for the tall, 6b). Superb moves above this gain a psychologically-draining rest point at the top of the groove where even breathing feels precarious! Slopers out right lead to the psycho-crux pull onto the arete with a high kick for a toe-hook, much gusto and a strong will to live.
could never do it, but anyone whos trys should watch the opening of the hard grit video. what a swing, what a slam, what a climb.
or watch another clip on
I saw the fall from Gaia with my own eyes the evening that Mr. Grieve put up Meshuga - couln't believe the French climber survived! From a falling point-of-view, this route seems more dangerous than Parthian Shot even if the gear is more solid! Definitely recommend Hard Grit to anyone - a must for any grit-climber's Video Library!
Can you not get some nuts in the crack that they've all got their fingers in?
Please no-one dignify that last comment with any replies. Thanks.
If you can fit your fingers into something you can generally get gear in something...
...though you may then have trouble fitting your fingers in as well
Watched Zaff do it. Lost his bottle in the groove and had to get a rope flicked round. He couldn't take anything off so grabbed said rope with his teeth before getting it in his hands. Funny and terrifying at the same time
Picture in summit 38 shows gear in the crack, albeit low down it is still higher than the cam underneath it. (Page 41)
yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, even in my head