Gaia

3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
 E8 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Curved Crack < Kra S'Hoan  |  Harder Faster > Curving Arete >>


20m. The stunning hanging groove; brilliant climbing, but restricted to the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove but is well protected (easier for the tall, 6b). Superb moves above this gain a psychologically-draining rest point at the top of the groove where even breathing feels precarious! Slopers out right lead to the psycho-crux pull onto the arete with a high kick for a toe-hook, much gusto and a strong will to live.
FA. Johnny Dawes 1986

USER COMMENTS

could never do it, but anyone whos trys should watch the opening of the hard grit video. what a swing, what a slam, what a climb.
james turnbull - 01/Mar/04

or watch another clip on

www.beardownproductions.co.uk
JR - 11/May/04

I saw the fall from Gaia with my own eyes the evening that Mr. Grieve put up Meshuga - couln't believe the French climber survived! From a falling point-of-view, this route seems more dangerous than Parthian Shot even if the gear is more solid! Definitely recommend Hard Grit to anyone - a must for any grit-climber's Video Library!
neil dennison - 20/Aug/04

Can you not get some nuts in the crack that they've all got their fingers in?
Iggy_B - 21/Jan/05

Please no-one dignify that last comment with any replies. Thanks.
Hugh Jass - 24/Jan/05

If you can fit your fingers into something you can generally get gear in something...
Iggy_B - 08/Mar/05

...though you may then have trouble fitting your fingers in as well
Simon Caldwell - 09/Mar/05

Watched Zaff do it. Lost his bottle in the groove and had to get a rope flicked round. He couldn't take anything off so grabbed said rope with his teeth before getting it in his hands. Funny and terrifying at the same time
Matt - 18/May/05

Picture in summit 38 shows gear in the crack, albeit low down it is still higher than the cam underneath it. (Page 41)
Iggy_B - 26/Jun/05

yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, even in my head
Dave - 25/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 31
    hard E9 0 of 10
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    easy E9 1 of 10
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    hard 6c 3 of 10
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    easy 6c 1 of 10
    hard 6b 1 of 10
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