Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 56
1) 5a, 10m. Climb the thin right-hand jamming crack, and awkward blocky groove, to a good stance on the left. Starting up the left-hand crack is also a more consistent 4c.
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The left hand crack is well worth doing, makes for a great route.
To anyone trying this route...
The polished right-hand jamming crack is pretty hard work, but very satisfying. The long traverse left is hard to protect.
Agree with Nick Smith, the righ-hand crack is hard work, but well worth it. Gear placements are good. The groove is rather perplexing, and the finishing traverse is fun, but make sure you have some largeish friends.
Yeah the left hand start does mean you do some of the most enjoyable moves ever on the lovely little traverse to join the top of the crack!!! And again the traverse left at the top is just funny though strangely unnerving i found!!!
I think the original route was the left-hand variation?
nice jams, good route. felt more like 4c but might just be me (no rope drag if you solo it)
Gorgeous route. I also thought 5a a bit steep for the first crack, sinkers in the crack and thoughtfully created wee holes on the face. No large pro left and then rain made the traverse the trickiest bit for me and i have an official jamming disability.
Does the traverse back right from the original left hand start go as a hand traverse or a foot traverse? The foot traverse seemed harder than 4c, not that I committed to it - the hand traverse seemed about right at 4c.