Nicotine StainRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
Adjacent Routes
6m. The thin seam is climbed on its left-hand side - thin! A very frustrating problem that sees many floundering attempts and much discussion about both line and grade! USER COMMENTS
Seems less contrived to use the right arete to climb this route. If so, it's more like 5b!
But the whole point is to climb the difficult seam, not to use the right arete, which is way out of reach anyway when you are climbing the seam. An excellent problem.
once in every c. 20 goes says probably more 6c than 6b!
Tough for 6b but fair I think you'll find!
If you think this is too hard to be 6b then compare it to proper 6c micro routes such as Inertia Reel, Help the Aged, Teck Crack Super Direct and Ant Lives - then think again.
I did climb this route with no problem at alls using my combined tactics, simply i did stand on the some other climbers who were already on this route to my aid for the fast climb. they were later shouting at me when i tried to thanks them for the help.
Contrived for me all the way. Still like it though! Much harder in summer.
Using the seam right-wards is definitely a very nice 6b. Using the left slab with the seam, however, is far more taxing, but ultimately just as enjoyable. I spent half a day playing with all the different ways up it - but don't consider any of the lines E1...
Certainly not E1 to solo. Its a 6b boulder problem but racked up and trying to place pro? on that? no way!
V5. I don't really understand how this can get a route rating. You could place gear before the topout I guess. Good problem though even if a little eliminate.
V5? 6c? Nah. Right-hand slab (again, no arete) goes at V3/4, left hand slab goes at V4. Only starting down left and finishing up right, i.e. diagonally traversing the seam, is vaguely near V4/5, and is hard 6b at most. Probably best to do it on a cool, dry October day before is starts going green.
I reckon font 6b for just the seam either side(just got back from font!) Certainly nowhere close to british tech 6c. Good stuff all the same though.
In my limited experience, i think eng 6b is fair.
Starting from the left (the proper way), it's hard finicky grit english 6b.
From the left since the pebble's gone? |