Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 10
A fine climb but very polished in places. Climb the front of the buttress, first right up a slippery groove then left up a short V-chimney. Traverse left past a sharp rib and round the arete to climb the steep slab formed by a huge block to good ledges at the base of a slabby arete, or go direct up a wide crack - awkward and HS 4b. Step onto the ridge then 'a cheval' or hand traverse this (poor protection) to the final easy walls and a finish up a short groove.
It doesn't really deserve the flutter symbol. It's impossible to fall off the 'A Cheval' move, you'll just slither a bit
A high quality potter! Shame the good bit is escapable.
it IS diff!
Yes, it is fairly difficult.
IF you fight your way up the chimney then it's diff, up the face is nearer S...
It may be impossible to fall "à cheval", but why on Earth would one climb it that way? The hand-traverse is simply spectacular, and lends the amazing feeling of being in true mountain terretory. Worth severe, certainly. Shame about the horrible polished ramp at the start.
Although it may not be possible to fall from the "a cheval", it didn't feel like it at the time, and my heart was certainly fluttering! Why on Earth would anyone not climb it this way, it's the best part of the route?!