Stonnis Arete

2 Stars
 HVD 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Right Promontory Gully < Stonnis Arete Variations  |  The Eighth Fold > Ladykiller Peak >>


A fine climb but very polished in places. Climb the front of the buttress, first right up a slippery groove then left up a short V-chimney. Traverse left past a sharp rib and round the arete to climb the steep slab formed by a huge block to good ledges at the base of a slabby arete, or go direct up a wide crack - awkward and HS 4b. Step onto the ridge then 'a cheval' or hand traverse this (poor protection) to the final easy walls and a finish up a short groove.
FA. Henry Bishop 1900

USER COMMENTS

It doesn't really deserve the flutter symbol. It's impossible to fall off the 'A Cheval' move, you'll just slither a bit
Budge - 27/Jun/03

A high quality potter! Shame the good bit is escapable.
Michael Birkby - 10/Sep/03

it IS diff!
al.smith - 02/Apr/04

Yes, it is fairly difficult.
alan - 31/May/05

IF you fight your way up the chimney then it's diff, up the face is nearer S...
hindu - 16/Jun/05

It may be impossible to fall "à cheval", but why on Earth would one climb it that way? The hand-traverse is simply spectacular, and lends the amazing feeling of being in true mountain terretory. Worth severe, certainly. Shame about the horrible polished ramp at the start.
Ché Gananrelli - 19/Sep/05

Although it may not be possible to fall from the "a cheval", it didn't feel like it at the time, and my heart was certainly fluttering! Why on Earth would anyone not climb it this way, it's the best part of the route?!
Simon Caldwell - 24/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 10
    hard0 of 2
    0 of 2
    easy0 of 2
    hard HVD 1 of 2
    HVD 0 of 2
    easy HVD 0 of 2
    hard VD 1 of 2
    VD 0 of 2
    easy VD 0 of 2
    hard 4b 0 of 2
    4b 0 of 2
    easy 4b 0 of 2
    hard 4a 0 of 2
    4a 0 of 2
    easy 4a 0 of 2
    hard 3c 2 of 2
    3c 0 of 2
    easy 3c 0 of 2
    3 Stars 0 of 6
    2 Stars 6 of 6
    1 Star 0 of 6
    0 Stars 0 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

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