The Rat's Tail

1 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Riffler < The Cotter  |  The Reamer > Leaning Block Gully >>

The hand-crack in a shallow groove gives good climbing to a tough exit on jams.


Errm bit of a bitch this one. I can't jam for toffee so expect thats why the top is so hard for me.
Southern softees watch out for Mr Craggs sandbags eg "the least brutal route on the crag"..
I came away scarred for life!!! (in my head and on my knuckles)
Ben Harding - 18/Jul/02

I think if you can jam it's okay. I can't really and when I did it first at the top I had to use a crimp up right
and then gaston the crack. Pathetic! I went back and tried it later jamming after taping up.
stow - 14/Apr/03

erm...what's a 'gaston'?
martin k - 22/May/03

Kind of a lay back, but up and behind you. Like what ben Moon does on the second hold on Brad Pit on Hard Grit.
Roberto - 25/May/03

The top bit felt more like a wrestling match than climbing - a refreshing change from suave face climbing though.
K O - 02/Jun/03

I personally love jamming but "the least brutal pitch on this part of the cliff" is not true - the top part of the route is tough and it feel like 5a/5b jamming.
CragHead - 23/Jun/03

Blimey. You've got to either have bloody mindedness or great jamming technique for this one.

I had to make do with bloody mindedness. The best thing about this route is that I've done it and don't have to do it again.
Ander Broadman - 11/Jul/04

It's a crack, if you don't trust your fists you'll struggle.
Jon Greengrass - 25/Jul/04

Real b*stard of a route, i'd give it HVS 5b, but that's just me.
Adam Moroz - 22/Aug/05

It's not sustained enough plus it has great gear so I don't reckon it is HVS. Tough for VS though, nice moves at the top.
MeMeMe - 29/Aug/05

tried to onsight solo this but had to retreat,and i like jaming and think dexterity at millstone is easy.
john nightingale - 27/Aug/06

Yeah, its def tough for VS. I led the Rasp cleanly then fell off this seconding - lol.
Jon Leighton - 18/Jun/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 65
    hard HVS 0 of 23
    HVS 0 of 23
    easy HVS 2 of 23
    hard VS 19 of 23
    VS 2 of 23
    easy VS 0 of 23
    hard HS 0 of 23
    HS 0 of 23
    easy HS 0 of 23
    hard 5b 0 of 23
    5b 0 of 23
    easy 5b 0 of 23
    hard 5a 0 of 23
    5a 0 of 23
    easy 5a 9 of 23
    hard 4c 12 of 23
    4c 2 of 23
    easy 4c 0 of 23
    3 Stars 0 of 19
    2 Stars 6 of 19
    1 Star 10 of 19
    0 Stars 2 of 19
    Bag of ..... 1 of 19

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