The File Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Linkline < Rowley Birkin QC  |  The Raven > Paddock >>


10m. Perhaps the Peak's pre-eminent jamming crack. A compelling crack in the south-facing wall gobbles Friends by the shed-load, arguments about the grade continue, though those who think it is E2 are wrong! The initial roof is the crux, but interest is well-maintained to a superb, juggy finish. Photo on cover.
FA. Don Whillans 1956

USER COMMENTS

The definative VS jamming crack. Classic!
Mark Stevenson - 29/May/02

HVS?? 5a??? Chaps...you need to learn to jam. The all-time Grit VS crack, a thing of beauty and a joy for ever.
dc - 07/Nov/02

hell on rock! but ok i admit it i cant jam, one day i'll learn
ellie - 05/Feb/03

This is tough even if you can jam. worth giving a go as the gears good and it sure is classic!
mark s davies - 03/May/03

Difficulty is inversely porportional to hand size.
DaveP - 06/Aug/03

still got the cuts a week later,shouldnt be too hard when the pattern is sorted and your not already pumped.failed in both areas.still love it
james turnbull - 14/Apr/04

Lots of flying time. Once you've sorted the sequence it looks do-able. Up4it attitude required and lots of cams! Defo on the hard side of VS 4c!
Mat Galvin - 10/Jun/04

pattern/sequence?! It's an easy and standard jamming crack. The trick is to jam your feet as well as your hands. Very delightfull!
Ropeboy - 11/Jun/04

like all 3 star cracks it all feels over too soon, perfect jams throughout I imagine it will spit you out if you're incompetent.
Jon Greengrass - 25/Jul/04

Enjoyed this loads! Will be back again to improve my style of assent (ahem, clean it up)
cider nut - 08/Aug/05

The jams are so good you dont even have to look at the crack as you climb it. Perfect.
Actually I felt it more like VS 4b, didn't feel any distinctive crux and not really 4c if you can jam, but sustained and pumpy if you hang around (best sprinted I reckon).
SidH - 19/Aug/05

Surely HS 4b for anyone with normal hands - every move is a rest!

Truly an excellent route though.
Fiend - 31/Mar/06

to a real good jammer it feels like hs 4b, but to anyone who's merely OK at jamming, it'll feel as hard as most e1s, and to anyone who's truly rubbish at jamming they'll fall off and leave their skin behind (well, the skin on the back of their hands anyway). so how hard is it? vs 4c of course, you can tell that much just by looking at it.
Jon Stewart - 09/Jul/06

could do with being ten times longer. nuff said
dave saxby - 23/Apr/07

i'd give it hvs 4c cos it's steep and sustained. i led it onsight and am an average jammer (i've been to indian creek!). it may be hs or vs for good jammers, who love to tell people how easy they find it, but how many british climbers fit this discription? not many in my experience.
clams - 17/Aug/10

It's... ahhh... Whillans'... route...
Dave Foster - 06/Sep/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 292
    hard HVS 0 of 99
    HVS 0 of 99
    easy HVS 14 of 99
    hard VS 31 of 99
    VS 47 of 99
    easy VS 4 of 99
    hard HS 3 of 99
    HS 0 of 99
    easy HS 0 of 99
    hard 5a 0 of 99
    5a 0 of 99
    easy 5a 13 of 99
    hard 4c 28 of 99
    4c 48 of 99
    easy 4c 5 of 99
    hard 4b 5 of 99
    4b 0 of 99
    easy 4b 0 of 99
    3 Stars 91 of 94
    2 Stars 2 of 94
    1 Star 1 of 94
    0 Stars 0 of 94
    Bag of ..... 0 of 94

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