Medusa

3 Stars
Loose
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Conclusor < Delusor  |  Hades > Via Vita >>


The original classic has become polished over the years. It is still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start from a narrow grassy ledge above and left of the large tree growing left of the toe of the buttress.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the glossy flake-crack then step right onto a short, steep, shattered wall above (some suspect holds). Step out right and belay left of a large pinnacle.
2) 4b, 26m. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, then slide up the shiny crack to a possible stance. Climb the pleasant ramp, in a superb situation, to finish up the grassy groove. Belay on the ledge on the right or find a well-hidden iron spike in the grass.
FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor 1960

USER COMMENTS

The first half of the second pitch is good but chossy elsewhere. Not worth three stars.
MG - 23/Jul/04

First pitch is a tottering pile of polished choss - the vines provide some of the best anchors. Above is interesting & much better climbing. Worth doing but not worth 3 stars.
Thomas Clitheroe - 23/Jul/05

Please note very loose and dangerous large spiked block at five metres. I should have thrown it down but had gear at the base....
Sishaw - 01/Aug/05

First 4 metres or so of the first pitch were good. Quite loose and chossy after that. Second pitch was ncie though
Craig - 15/Aug/05

Block now resides on scree. Partner 'expressed some concern' and became 'somewhat animated' on making its aquaintance when leading first pitch at end of Aug. Having read Sishaw comment I moved sacks and helped it to its resting place with fightening ease! Appeared to have nothing holding it on. Another remains but is wedged behind a large flake. Good climb!
NGH - 04/Oct/05

nesting birds next to the belay stance 2 days ago,thought it was a bit chossy.3 stars?
nick whelan - 13/Jun/07

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 44
    hard HVS 0 of 15
    HVS 0 of 15
    easy HVS 0 of 15
    hard VS 0 of 15
    VS 13 of 15
    easy VS 2 of 15
    hard HS 0 of 15
    HS 0 of 15
    easy HS 0 of 15
    hard 4c 0 of 14
    4c 0 of 14
    easy 4c 1 of 14
    hard 4b 6 of 14
    4b 6 of 14
    easy 4b 1 of 14
    hard 4a 0 of 14
    4a 0 of 14
    easy 4a 0 of 14
    3 Stars 4 of 15
    2 Stars 5 of 15
    1 Star 6 of 15
    0 Stars 0 of 15
    Bag of ..... 0 of 15

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