Mealystopheles

1 Stars
Technical
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Via Vita Direct < Mealy Bugs  |  Bullets > Mephistopheles >>

1) 5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the buttress and climb this and enter the awkward left-facing groove above. Follow the continuation groove to the terrace and a belay.
2) 4c, 24m. Follow Mealy Bugs, but once in the scoop, traverse round the arete and finish up the wide crack that lurks there. This is awkward to start but soon eases.
FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown 1965

USER COMMENTS

Not sure, but I think either the description or the grade is wrong here. On the second pitch, I went left of the steep groove, which apart from looking about 5b was covered in bird poo. This followed an obvious line (Mealybugs) and led to a step right to the peg. On Peak Rock gives the second pitch 5b (presumably up the steep groove described here), and I can't see how this could be downgraded to 4c.
Jon Stewart - 04/Jul/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 23
    hard HVS 0 of 8
    HVS 0 of 8
    easy HVS 2 of 8
    hard VS 5 of 8
    VS 1 of 8
    easy VS 0 of 8
    hard HS 0 of 8
    HS 0 of 8
    easy HS 0 of 8
    hard 5b 0 of 8
    5b 0 of 8
    easy 5b 0 of 8
    hard 5a 0 of 8
    5a 8 of 8
    easy 5a 0 of 8
    hard 4c 0 of 8
    4c 0 of 8
    easy 4c 0 of 8
    3 Stars 0 of 7
    2 Stars 2 of 7
    1 Star 5 of 7
    0 Stars 0 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.