<< Mealystopheles < Bullets | Purple Haze > Ploy >>
A good climb that starts just left of the toe of the buttress, below an evil-looking hanging flake.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb a groove, then move right past the wedged flake with care. Continue awkwardly up the thin crack until tricky moves right gain the belay.
2) 5b, 24m. Climb the crack above the stance to steeper rock, then pull through the bulges to join the wide crack that forms the final section of the upper pitch of Mealystopheles. Steep.
FA. Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock (1pt) 1964
The crux section has a sustained series of hard moves protected by awkward-to-place gear.
steve culverhouse - 17/Sep/07
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