<< West Wall Climb < Enough Time | The Beest > Principle of Moments >>
A reasonable start and finish are linked by some rock and a lot of vegetation in the upper half of the first pitch.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb the crack in the left wall of the slabby groove to bulges, then traverse left to easier rock. Graze up the rib and grotty terrain to a belay below cleaner rock. A tough pitch. The wall to the left gives a harder variant - The Direct Start, E2 5c.
2) 5a, 14m. Trend left up the wall to a niche, then climb up and slightly leftwards to belay in the cave.
3) 4c, 15m. Finish leftwards, as for West Wall Climb.
FA. Des Hadlum, G.Smith (3pts) 1968
The 'graze up the rib and grotty terrain' would be enough to most off (and seems to these days).
roger whetton - 16/Oct/03
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