Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 20
A cracking eliminate with a lot of fine fingery climbing and just a little unsavoury grass to remind you where you are.</br>1) 6a, 28m. Follow Patience to the bulge, then make fingery moves through this. Keep slightly right to avoid the vegetation until a horizontal traverse leads to a stance below cleaner rock.</br>2) 5c, 20m. Climb steeply rightwards to a rest in a shallow groove. Climb the groove, then trend slightly left to the bulges. Step right then pull leftwards onto the headwall and climb this, passing a man-sized hole, to easy ground and the holly.</br>The Beesty Boys, E3 6a - This follows the fixed gear up the wall, and through the bulge left of the The Beest pitch 2.
The description in the guide is wrong- pitch 1 goes left of Patience passing twin pegs and an in situ thread. rather more sustained. Difficult to pinpoint any 6a on pitch 1 or any 5c on pitch 2. No harder than Carls Wark Crack, Scoop Wall or Jasper which we did the day before. Generally the routes her eseem overgraded- its the same with Black Grub and Catharsis etc. Not convinced The Beest is really 3 stars worth either. Pitch 1 isn't exactly Darius is it?
The description in the guide is correct for pitch 1 of the Beest. The variation Ian mentions is the old direct start to Patience which goes at E2 5c and may make a suitable variation start for the Beest as well, but isn't where the original route was climbed.
I think the grading is correct and unlike many on Beeston not a bit soft. Thought the top pitch gave superb climbing, about same standard as Black Grub. OK, pitch 1 isn't so great - but the crux bulge felt 6a, esp. since vegetation, cobwebs and general grot was covering the best handholds!
Grading seemed correct to me - Both p1 and p2 would be trivial if you have a long reach.