The Beest

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Enough Time < Patience  |  Principle of Moments > The Thorn >>

A cracking eliminate with a lot of fine fingery climbing and just a little unsavoury grass to remind you where you are.
1) 6a, 28m. Follow Patience to the bulge, then make fingery moves through this. Keep slightly right to avoid the vegetation until a horizontal traverse leads to a stance below cleaner rock.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb steeply rightwards to a rest in a shallow groove. Climb the groove, then trend slightly left to the bulges. Step right then pull leftwards onto the headwall and climb this, passing a man-sized hole, to easy ground and the holly.
The Beesty Boys, E3 6a - This follows the fixed gear up the wall, and through the bulge left of the The Beest pitch 2.
FA. Jeff Morgan, Zep Dyszlewicz (8pts) 1970. FA. (TBB) Nigel Slater 1987

USER COMMENTS

The description in the guide is wrong- pitch 1 goes left of Patience passing twin pegs and an in situ thread. rather more sustained. Difficult to pinpoint any 6a on pitch 1 or any 5c on pitch 2. No harder than Carls Wark Crack, Scoop Wall or Jasper which we did the day before. Generally the routes her eseem overgraded- its the same with Black Grub and Catharsis etc. Not convinced The Beest is really 3 stars worth either. Pitch 1 isn't exactly Darius is it?
ian Jones - 21/Jul/05

The description in the guide is correct for pitch 1 of the Beest. The variation Ian mentions is the old direct start to Patience which goes at E2 5c and may make a suitable variation start for the Beest as well, but isn't where the original route was climbed.
Alan James - UKC - 21/Jul/05

I think the grading is correct and unlike many on Beeston not a bit soft. Thought the top pitch gave superb climbing, about same standard as Black Grub. OK, pitch 1 isn't so great - but the crux bulge felt 6a, esp. since vegetation, cobwebs and general grot was covering the best handholds!
TonyM - 21/Sep/05

Grading seemed correct to me - Both p1 and p2 would be trivial if you have a long reach.

There is no "man sized hole" on P2...

The plants are greatly reduced in size at present and the route clean, apart from the veg ramble at the end of p1.
ChrisC - 27/Jun/06

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