Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 89
One of the Peak's best limestone climbs and the classic of the crag. A superb central line, with a well-positioned crux. A pull on the peg of the crucial bulge lowers the grade to a solid VS.</br>1) 4b, 28m. From the ever-dry cave, climb the slabby right wall, right then left into the main groove, before easier climbing leads to threads (chains) under the huge overhangs.</br>2) 5a, 20m. Move out left and climb the short juggy rib to the bulges (several old pegs). Pull rapidly over to easier-angled ground in the groove above, continue to a belay in the big holly.
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Rather overrated and certainly nowhere near to being 'One of the Peak's best limestone climbs'
Desperate, exposed, and despite being adventurous, not particularly refined climbing.
Probably better done as a second pitch to something like Pocket Symphony. A couple of threads make this an ok route and the difficulties are short lived.
Nocturne is also an alternative approach to the top pitch which is wearing a bit but is bog standard HVS 5A
The exposure and fine climbing on the second pitch make this a great route. The crux is well situated and the rest is steady 4b/c climbing. If you are looking for a good early HVS on Limestone then ths is for you.
I relaxed climbing the upper reaches of this route whilst having an mri scan on my back
Great route. worth 3 stars.
I thought this was good but the crux is unobvious and strenuous, and getting on for 5b IMHO - I found it a bit desperate.
Felt more like 5b to me, and harder than any of the moves on Pocket Symphony - I was tempted to fall off just to do the baby bouncer thing on the pegs! Brilliant exposure
Maybe not one of the best limestone routes in the Peak, but good nevertheless.
The first pitch is just a way of getting to...