Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 63
From the ledge, head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (threadable surprises aplenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into the Ivy Gash.
E0 and truly delightful, would be 3 star climbing if it wasn't for the stupidly crap first pitch.
Very pleasant, take plenty of threads for enjoyably fiddly gear.
Good fun, good gear.
I thought the gear was utterly shit for the most part. Most of the threads are too thin and nowhere near strong enough to hold a fall - I ripped one through (about 1cm across) just with friction and a small static force at the belay the orute before I did this and so refused to trust them. Sideways nuts are also very dodgy because the rock is a bit friable and wears away around them. Great climbing though.
Placing the threads is the hardest part, closely followed by trusting them.
Good climbing and I thought the threads were okay, note the tip in the guide about coat hangers and cord - very useful.