Black Grub

3 Stars
Crimpy
 E3 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Central Wall < Catharsis  |  Cleo's Mood > The Fly >>


The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to the base of the streak. Climb straight up this which is sustained and fingery all the way to its top (a rest is possible on the left, in the scoop of Catharsis, for the harassed). At the top of the streak, pull up and finish up the Ivy Gash.
FA. John Yates 1974

USER COMMENTS

A nice long pitch, best done without the rest for the 'full' experience.
John Camateras - 24/Oct/03

Just reached the approach path on 50m ropes from the steel cable threaded at the top of Ivy Gash - a good descent option. The approach is really grim and merits respect, even in the dry.
chris harrison - 23/Mar/05

Lovelly sustained pocket pulling, with a distinct crux just below the move left. I thought there was a better rest when you move back right onto the black streak than the one out left.
The approach is horrible and if the fixed rope wears out, you could go a long way.
John Alcock - 31/May/05

A worthwhile 'warm-up-approach' is to lead Pocket Symphony (can be done in one pitch from the ground), then do the 2nd, traverse pitch of Ivy Gash lowering off the top belay it shares with black grub (watch the ends of the rope when lowering the 2nd).

Nick Learmont
NickAL - 21/Jul/05

Surely the difficulty is pretty dependent on the number of threads in situ? Climbed as a clip-up (condition last weekend), it's straightforward. Quality though! Lots of 1st finger joint moves.
TonyM - 21/Sep/05

Magificent, as good as any bit of pocket pulling you'd find on the Continent. Currently well threaded and deserving of a fair 6b+. The off-route deviation to a rest out left does NOT get you the tick! Just a bloody great bit of climbing.

To avoid the utterly vile and lethal approach from below, and to avoid the grass slopes getting to the Ivy Gash belay, it's possible to ab from the hawthorn cluster to the belay ledge with a 50m ab rope. A 60m ab rope would get you to Majolica too.
Fiend - 19/May/07

Did this yesterday and the "path" across from The Thorn gearing up spot is actually pretty clear and relatively pleasant at the moment, there is an in situ rope for you assistance on the path too, seemed like a better option than a diaganol ab to us. Great route.
rich macey - 30/Jun/10

We did Evensong and Ivy Gash and then abbed down to the belay. Thought the route was very good but that it would have been a better experience if there hadn't been so much tat in place (some of which is next to good wire and friend placements). It is supposed to be an E3 trad route not a 6b clip up?
Simon King - 12/Aug/11

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