Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 8
8m. Start in a groove and climb the crack that springs leftwards from its apex. The jamming crack through the bulge has ÔlockersÕ.
There is something wrong here. Firstly this climb has very few jams worth using and can be climbing at a very easy grade without them, the crack through the bulge (unless they mean the start) seemed to have very few jams and mainly flared towrds you. Secondly most of the climbing is on small ledges around the crack and is dead easy. The bulge is more of a slab by the time you get to it. Protection was OK but not mega easy to place and find always. I think HVD!!!! I also checked my location with a local who had the definitive guide and agreed it was this route and also clibed it. It's very hard to mistake this butress as it has distinctive pock markings, shape (boulbous bulge) and cracks.
I'll have to vote S 4a but I think more like HVD 3c!!!
I agree with the above comments, a very nice route but no more than VDiff. The recent BMC guide gives it HS 4a which is even more misleading, there's as much gear as you can be bothered to place!