The Knock Top 50

3 Stars
Fluttery
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
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8m. A superb and committing arete with the crux, and some rather battered protection, right at the top. Arguments about the grade will rage until the sun explodes and don't mention mats!
FA. John Allen 1975

USER COMMENTS

Not really an E5. Easily protectable with a 0 or 00 friend.
wladoo - 28/May/03

I don't care about the grade. Its a 3 star route if you protect it or not. Less arguing, more climbing!!
Birkby - 04/Nov/03

I trundled up to the break expecting gear, armed with a friend 0 and 00, only to find sweet FA.
So I trundled back down...
Since then I've been told that you can get a decent RP in, but this is pretty hard unless its pre-placed.
Worth low E5 for an onsight solo with no pads IMO.
Dan - 14/Feb/04

takes a good small nut (dead easy to place on lead), and also takes a crafty friend2, and then theres all the small friends and aliens over left (harder to place).
Dave - 16/Feb/04

The move going from the left crimp to the crimp below the break is really quite hard for the small... fantastic route tho!
crazy diamond - 08/Jul/04

Quite easy if u are tall, the span 2 the arete is the hardest move! did it solo with no mat, and considering the possible bollock castrating landing on the block, i think its worth E5!
north_country_boy - 14/Oct/04

absolutely brilliant route. Very good climbing especially the lower bit with the top being frightening.
dave - 03/May/05

E4 5C. Think you're in for a nastier fall on Archangel and that's only E3
matt - 14/Jun/05

the move is def 6a, but E4 is probs more accurate. 3 stars all the same. i got a friend 2 and a slimline rock 1 in. together i think they were ok.
free_doherty - 14/Jun/05

It wasn't a 2 it was a 1.5
Iggy_B - 25/Jul/05

tbh its a solo as the gear in the break is pointless.hardest move is the span to the arete and feels good 6a,after that its 5c for the top arete.imo theres no way its E5.it should get E4 6a maximum.
rich - 23/Mar/06

I think it's E5 for the onsight solo but E4 if you lead it and afterall, this should be the grade it gets. Topping out isn't 'that' much easier than the rockover.
Paul Phillips - 14/Aug/06

Easy if technically competent and like slightly bold climbing. Mid 6a and no way is it E5, E4 max. Bit of a classic though.
Stephen Robinson - 03/Nov/06

Odd That! As you rely totally on your seemingly endless supply of brute strength. Nice1
Tommy G - 07/Nov/06

An intense experience for your average E2/3 leader... The rock is great, the holds satisfying, and the finish particularly nice. The gear however, is somewhat sub-optimal, although a varied and careful selection would hold a fall. The grade (sans mats) - E4 5d of course.
Fiend - 05/Feb/07

www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJluNO8CmOM
simes303 - 01/Nov/07

i think the rp placement is no longer there. as with Iggy_b i got an over cammed 1.5 in. ace route, and E4. just commit to the esy top moves!
luke - 19/Oct/08

Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make much difference from the top.
A Hughes - 20/Oct/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 75
    hard E5 0 of 5
    E5 0 of 5
    easy E5 0 of 5
    hard E4 0 of 5
    E4 5 of 5
    easy E4 0 of 5
    hard E3 0 of 5
    E3 0 of 5
    easy E3 0 of 5
    hard 6b 0 of 36
    6b 0 of 36
    easy 6b 0 of 36
    hard 6a 0 of 36
    6a 24 of 36
    easy 6a 8 of 36
    hard 5c 4 of 36
    5c 0 of 36
    easy 5c 0 of 36
    3 Stars 25 of 34
    2 Stars 8 of 34
    1 Star 0 of 34
    0 Stars 0 of 34
    Bag of ..... 1 of 34

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