Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 75
8m. A superb and committing arete with the crux, and some rather battered protection, right at the top. Arguments about the grade will rage until the sun explodes and don't mention mats!
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Not really an E5. Easily protectable with a 0 or 00 friend.
I don't care about the grade. Its a 3 star route if you protect it or not. Less arguing, more climbing!!
I trundled up to the break expecting gear, armed with a friend 0 and 00, only to find sweet FA.
takes a good small nut (dead easy to place on lead), and also takes a crafty friend2, and then theres all the small friends and aliens over left (harder to place).
The move going from the left crimp to the crimp below the break is really quite hard for the small... fantastic route tho!
Quite easy if u are tall, the span 2 the arete is the hardest move! did it solo with no mat, and considering the possible bollock castrating landing on the block, i think its worth E5!
absolutely brilliant route. Very good climbing especially the lower bit with the top being frightening.
E4 5C. Think you're in for a nastier fall on Archangel and that's only E3
the move is def 6a, but E4 is probs more accurate. 3 stars all the same. i got a friend 2 and a slimline rock 1 in. together i think they were ok.
It wasn't a 2 it was a 1.5
tbh its a solo as the gear in the break is pointless.hardest move is the span to the arete and feels good 6a,after that its 5c for the top arete.imo theres no way its E5.it should get E4 6a maximum.
I think it's E5 for the onsight solo but E4 if you lead it and afterall, this should be the grade it gets. Topping out isn't 'that' much easier than the rockover.
Easy if technically competent and like slightly bold climbing. Mid 6a and no way is it E5, E4 max. Bit of a classic though.
Odd That! As you rely totally on your seemingly endless supply of brute strength. Nice1
An intense experience for your average E2/3 leader... The rock is great, the holds satisfying, and the finish particularly nice. The gear however, is somewhat sub-optimal, although a varied and careful selection would hold a fall. The grade (sans mats) - E4 5d of course.
i think the rp placement is no longer there. as with Iggy_b i got an over cammed 1.5 in. ace route, and E4. just commit to the esy top moves!
Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make much difference from the top.