Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 53
Judge, jury and harsh taskmaster. A magnificent climb; the best in the valley. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and left following good finger holds and a line of threads. Swing down and left to access a steep groove and sprint up this to an old peg at its top. Swing left and, before gravity takes over, layback up into the welcome shade of the capping yew tree.
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A contender for the best E3 in the Peak.
Bloody hell - harsh taskmaster indeed! A seemingly never-ending series of intricate and committing cruxes interspersed with semi-rests and thankfully good protection. Quite a voyage...
absolutely fantastic route. Definitely one of the best in the peak. Generally good edges, excellent gear but very sustained after halfway with few rests.
Not really the 3 * classic I was promised. Probably just E3 5c but I thought the other routes at the crag were better
Pretty steady climbing but sustained up until the last move. The final crack is hard for weiry arms. make sure you save some small-medium wires for the final section..
Fantastic route although I've not done it for years and years.
Flippin brilliant route. Beautiful and complex moves thankfully broken into bite-size chunks by good rests and bomber gear. As of July '05 the threads were in a faded but pretty solid state.
Done a few times in past, last being in 2002 but had a look last weekend (4/5/06) and noticed the 'crucial' thread / tat in the middle of the traverse is missing. The rock has actually broken so someone could have had quite a swing if came off on the traverse. I used to rely on just clipping the tat - did get a rock 2 in and a micro - these are lower than the tat was, but doesnt alter grade (though I did fail on rest of route this time - too pumped). Would be interested to know when the thread tat/thread was broken and if anyone had a surprising plummet. Note there are still a couple of threads on bit shared with Nancy Whiskey i.e. before traverse.
Climbed this yesterday and thought it was fair for E3 5c. If a thread has gone from the hard moves on the traverse, it wasn't obvious where it had been. There are still bomber wires just before the hard move, and then a rest and more wires just afterwards. You'd swing if you fell off, but then it is E3 and not E2. Splendid all the way.
the best route in the dale and to date one of the most enjoyable climbs i've lead. brill.