Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 43
10m. Balancy climbing up the left arete of the buttress (poor landing) leads to a good horizontal break and runners. An immense reach is all that remains, or if baffled, head left.
Worth 2 stars at least! The lowish pocket takes 2 dodgy 0 cams and apparently a bomber 00 which I didn't have. Reachy move to reach the jugs, may be E3 6a for the short. Have done both finishes and for anyone under 6'5 go left as the straight up was at the very limit of my reach.
Steady climbing up to the last break where the right hand option is far harder than the left and worth 6a, s undercut on a small edge provides the answer for me. Gear in the small slot at the start is good if place right, I managed a bomber 0 friend.
A very worthwhile route - when done direct up the obvious line of the arete. Why a route would be described with an off-line eliminate finish is beyond me. The lower section, just safe above the perfect small cams, has a very fine sequence.