George Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< There Will Be Blood < Caesar  |  Destot's Gap > Bye, George >>


One of the best routes in the Dale - a big pitch, steep sustained and in a superb situation. Several old pegs remain though plenty of more modern alternatives are available. Climb straight up the tricky fingery wall into the base of the slanting fault of John Peel. Follow this until it starts to lean to the right when awkward, exposed moves can be made out onto the face on the left. Climb steeply into the long crack and then follow it all the way to the cliff top. Superb.
FA. Steve Read, Rod Leeming, D.Carnell, P.Brown, S.Hunt mid 1950s
FFA. (well almost - 2pts) Paul Nunn, Jeff Morgan 1969

USER COMMENTS

A candidate for the best E1 in Derbyshire!
roger whetton - 07/Oct/03

Considerably more taxing than Brutus, and excitingly positioned too.
Fiend - 24/Oct/03

Excellent, sustained but not desperate. As of 13/3/2005 there was an owl nesting halfway up the final groove, near the remains of the bush.
GrahamD - 14/Mar/05

Check no one is below you - a bit of dodgy rock around.

Cracking route though, not that pumpy at all since plenty of rests.
simonjudge - 14/Apr/05

Great fun. I placed about 20 runners.
John Alcock - 31/May/05

Awesome!! Crux is low down (jct with JP) and a long reach helps clipping the 2nd peg, but the route is really sustained that reaching the summit is really satisfying.
Chris the Tall - 16/Jul/05

A very well worth doing route, truly a three star route. Interesting to note it use to be HVS when Brutus was E1!
Sishaw - 18/Jul/05

Good route - the first 4 metres is getting quite polished, but it improves above. Brilliant moves onto the crux by the first (rusty) peg. Like other comments here, it does feel easier than Brutus, but it's a very different route: a bit pumpier and with better holds/gear placement. Brutus is all finger crack and small/micro wires. Enjoy the uniquely British experience of looking at the chavs by the river from your tree belay, and wishing you'd avoided the dog shit on the walk up.
Rin - 08/Aug/05

Fell off polished move about 4 metres up smacked off big tree and sprained ankle,stupid gay route,i hate polished limestone :(
Adam Moroz - 12/Aug/07

A proper mission and thoroughly satisfying.
Chris Parson - 16/Aug/09

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 74
    hard E2 0 of 25
    E2 0 of 25
    easy E2 0 of 25
    hard E1 15 of 25
    E1 9 of 25
    easy E1 1 of 25
    hard HVS 0 of 25
    HVS 0 of 25
    easy HVS 0 of 25
    hard 5c 0 of 25
    5c 0 of 25
    easy 5c 0 of 25
    hard 5b 14 of 25
    5b 10 of 25
    easy 5b 0 of 25
    hard 5a 1 of 25
    5a 0 of 25
    easy 5a 0 of 25
    3 Stars 22 of 24
    2 Stars 1 of 24
    1 Star 0 of 24
    0 Stars 0 of 24
    Bag of ..... 1 of 24

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